No go then, it intercepts the signal from the head unit. Easy way to do it is tap the rear speakers for a signal. Old school but it works.
i had a car audio shop do it. They're better at it than I am. They put in all new speakers,amps, and sound deadening. I did remove the factory sub.
SHOOT!!! #&*$^% I remember reading this a long time ago but forgot about it. Now I have the Aussie box being delivered tomorrow and have a JL 10TW1-2 on order also. Do you recall about how close it was to fitting? That TW-1 is pretty shallow mount - most of the excursion is in the box rather than above the mount - hence the extra depth. But I'm just curious whether an MDF ring could be added to get the mounting depth up high enough. If not I suppose I'll need to go with the Hertz. Which sub did you use?
I went ahead and edited my order from the TW1 to the TW3. On the ebay page for the aussie stealthbox it appears someone else was able to use the TW3. Seems the Hertz and TW3 both need larger volumes than the TW1, but it also appears they're both still performing well. We'll see I guess!
I have the JL Stealthbox with the TW1. Other than the physical dimensions what’s the difference between the TW1 and TW3? More RMS watts needed for the TW3 I believe - but does that come with a wider (deeper) frequency range too?
Yeah apparently the TW1 doesn’t fit in the standalone Aussie stealth box like it does in the JL stealth box so I went with the TW3. The 3 wants a bit more box volume and in that volume would have higher Xmas and lower F3 (40hz vs 45 for TW1) but it likely won’t dig that deep with such a small volume box. The TW3 also has dual voice coils.
