Subwoofer box

[Arsenall11]

how does the Kicker keyloc integrate into the system? I do not have a factory sub on my 24 XLT.

No go then, it intercepts the signal from the head unit. Easy way to do it is tap the rear speakers for a signal. Old school but it works.

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[DirtDerrick]

How did you tie it in with factory system? Did you just disconnect the factory sub and run the wires to new sub?

i had a car audio shop do it. They're better at it than I am. They put in all new speakers,amps, and sound deadening. I did remove the factory sub.

 

[jorosz0309]

Just an FYI the JL 10TW1 does not fit in the Australian Stealt-tech box. The subwoofer is too deep and will cause the entire box to not fit. Ask me how I know lol

SHOOT!!! #&*$^% I remember reading this a long time ago but forgot about it. Now I have the Aussie box being delivered tomorrow and have a JL 10TW1-2 on order also. Do you recall about how close it was to fitting? That TW-1 is pretty shallow mount - most of the excursion is in the box rather than above the mount - hence the extra depth. But I'm just curious whether an MDF ring could be added to get the mounting depth up high enough. If not I suppose I'll need to go with the Hertz. Which sub did you use?

 

[jorosz0309]

Just an FYI the JL 10TW1 does not fit in the Australian Stealt-tech box. The subwoofer is too deep and will cause the entire box to not fit. Ask me how I know lol

I went ahead and edited my order from the TW1 to the TW3. On the ebay page for the aussie stealthbox it appears someone else was able to use the TW3. Seems the Hertz and TW3 both need larger volumes than the TW1, but it also appears they're both still performing well. We'll see I guess!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192610319641

 

[Hofstetm]

I went ahead and edited my order from the TW1 to the TW3. On the ebay page for the aussie stealthbox it appears someone else was able to use the TW3. Seems the Hertz and TW3 both need larger volumes than the TW1, but it also appears they're both still performing well. We'll see I guess!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192610319641

I have the JL Stealthbox with the TW1. Other than the physical dimensions what’s the difference between the TW1 and TW3? More RMS watts needed for the TW3 I believe - but does that come with a wider (deeper) frequency range too?

 

[jorosz0309]

I have the JL Stealthbox with the TW1. Other than the physical dimensions what’s the difference between the TW1 and TW3? More RMS watts needed for the TW3 I believe - but does that come with a wider (deeper) frequency range too?

Yeah apparently the TW1 doesn’t fit in the standalone Aussie stealth box like it does in the JL stealth box so I went with the TW3. The 3 wants a bit more box volume and in that volume would have higher Xmas and lower F3 (40hz vs 45 for TW1) but it likely won’t dig that deep with such a small volume box. The TW3 also has dual voice coils.
I’m sure it’ll be light years better than that factory 5” and I’ll probably have to keep it pretty low given the output of these subs anyway. We’ll see how the install goes. Just debating on whether to remove the factory sub or leave it in to fill out the mid-bass. Probably leave it in, see if there are any phasing issues, and maybe unplug later if it doesn’t sound great.

 

[pablo94sc]

No go then, it intercepts the signal from the head unit. Easy way to do it is tap the rear speakers for a signal. Old school but it works.

Have a recommended LOC for this? NVX has some inexpensive ones, as does Kicker, and I'd like to see just how good I can get the factory b&o system to sound with just acoustic treatment and an aftermarket sub.

 

[Sauce]

I just want to make sure I'm on same page. You are just trying to tap for a signal for an amp?

I know for sure because I just tapped it today. Left front door speaker is Blue + and Gray -.

I just spliced into the blue with my positive speaker wire and gray negative wire. Then ran it from the door to cab. I tucked into the trim to hide it. ran it to my line out converter which for me is JL LoC 22. Which I am hiding behind rear bench seat. Now, I'm not sure what you have. I know some amps come with that integrated so without specifics I am just guessing.

Here is speaker wire info that is pretty close if not same on some but it is for rangers 5G, but its been right for fronts and tweeters.

Left front door speakers (base model) positive (+): blue or green/orange, negative (-): gray/brown or gray/orange
Right front door speakers (base model) positive (+): yellow/orange, negative (-): green/brown or violet/orange
Left rear speaker (base model) positive (+): gray/violet, negative (-): brown/green or brown/white
Right rear speaker (base model) positive (+): green/violet, negative (-): gray
Left front door tweeter (with amp) positive (+): blue/gray, negative (-): green/brown
Right front door tweeter (with amp) positive (+): green/violet, negative (-): white/orange
Left front door woofer (with amp) positive (+): white, negative (-): white/brown
Right front door woofer (with amp) positive (+): white/violet, negative (-): white/orange

Hope this helps points you in the right direction.

I checked this against the official wiring diagram for my 2024 and the wire colors referenced above are correct. NOTE that this only applies to the Ranger without the subwoofer. The colors are different for any model with a Subwoofer (Lariat/Raptor).

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