Subwoofer box

[24'Ranger]

I actually like it a lot. Probably good for a sub that will fit the dimensions of the enclosure. Sealed box of .35 to .6 volume. I have deadened the tub but I think I need to do the outside of the enclosure too but not sure. There is a rattle somewhere in the back on deep bass I need to find and deaden that too.

Not sure if this already out there but the front speakers are 6x9 and the rear are 6.5". I jumped the gun before taking door panels off and ordered components because I assumed the front doors would be 6.5". It worked out anyways as I used the tweeters that came with inline filter (which is needed if you are just replacing speakers) to replace stock tweeters and put the 6.5" in the rear doors. I just bought a pair of 6x9 two way to put in the doors and I am very happy with the result.

I wasn't planning on replacing the back door speakers so if you want to go that route just buy a pair 6x9 components.

Here are the adapters that work perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTSVYGK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIC6ALK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016YIFQ7I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these for the tweeters but they are not exact fit, but I was able to force them to work and its secure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OAB6BW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Hope this helps anyone looking to upgrade their speakers or add a sub.

Thank you for sharing this! I too am planning on upgrading the speakers in my XLT ranger and was looking for this.

If you want to share, what's your audio plan?

I don't want to give up usability, thus no under-seat sub, but I am thinking about replacing the speakers.

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[JaxRangerXLT]

Thank you for sharing this! I too am planning on upgrading the speakers in my XLT ranger and was looking for this.

If you want to share, what's your audio plan?

I don't want to give up usability, thus no under-seat sub, but I am thinking about replacing the speakers.

I just reused everything a lot from my Maverick audio build that I took out when I traded in my Maverick ( needed a little more towing ).

This consists of JL LoC 22 to get signal for the mono amp. I tapped front speaker for the signal to the JL LoC 22.

Down4sound JP8 mono amp 800w

DSP ( which is overkill for this set up but I already had it )

JL Audio C1-650se 6.5" component ( I probably would have went with Morel but they were OOS when Ordering). I used the 6.5" in the back speakers and tweeters in the front pillars.

CT sounds 6x9 which I only ordered because I could get next day delivery when I realized front doors where 6x9. They sound decent so I will maybe upgrade to something better later on.

My sub is pioneer 10" shallow mount that I already had too.

As I mentioned in the previous post and I wanted to save a little on the build I would of ignored replacing the back speakers and just bought 6x9 components. Speaking of components I would look for something 3/4" for the tweeters to fit the existing spot.

Also, I forgot the mention but this is off top my head so might be a little off on my info here.

I recommend using a plastic interior pry tool to pop off the silver accent thing right by the inside door handle to get to the two T20 bolts and at bottom of the door is two more T20 bolts. Remove the window sail too for the front doors.

IIRC then you need 7mm to remove the 6x9 stock speakers housing.

for the tweeter in the pillars just pop off the driver side. I would put a towel or something to protect the dash from scratching. Passenger side pry off the caps on the handle and remove the bolts (I believe they are 7mm too but now sure) and then you can just pop off that pillar too.

It really was pretty painless compared to the Maverick.

I didn't want to lose the under seat storage either, but that is only realistic spot for a subwoofer unless you want to try and use the funky layout behind the seat which is way more involved then I would want to do. lol So what I did was buy some pouches that were decent size and used velcro to attach behind the seat and that replaced my under seat storage I lost.

 

[24'Ranger]

I just reused everything a lot from my Maverick audio build that I took out when I traded in my Maverick ( needed a little more towing ).

This consists of JL LoC 22 to get signal for the mono amp. I tapped front speaker for the signal to the JL LoC 22.

Down4sound JP8 mono amp 800w

DSP ( which is overkill for this set up but I already had it )

JL Audio C1-650se 6.5" component ( I probably would have went with Morel but they were OOS when Ordering). I used the 6.5" in the back speakers and tweeters in the front pillars.

CT sounds 6x9 which I only ordered because I could get next day delivery when I realized front doors where 6x9. They sound decent so I will maybe upgrade to something better later on.

My sub is pioneer 10" shallow mount that I already had too.

As I mentioned in the previous post and I wanted to save a little on the build I would of ignored replacing the back speakers and just bought 6x9 components. Speaking of components I would look for something 3/4" for the tweeters to fit the existing spot.

Also, I forgot the mention but this is off top my head so might be a little off on my info here.

I recommend using a plastic interior pry tool to pop off the silver accent thing right by the inside door handle to get to the two T20 bolts and at bottom of the door is two more T20 bolts. Remove the window sail too for the front doors.

IIRC then you need 7mm to remove the 6x9 stock speakers housing.

for the tweeter in the pillars just pop off the driver side. I would put a towel or something to protect the dash from scratching. Passenger side pry off the caps on the handle and remove the bolts (I believe they are 7mm too but now sure) and then you can just pop off that pillar too.

It really was pretty painless compared to the Maverick.

I didn't want to lose the under seat storage either, but that is only realistic spot for a subwoofer unless you want to try and use the funky layout behind the seat which is way more involved then I would want to do. lol So what I did was buy some pouches that were decent size and used velcro to attach behind the seat and that replaced my under seat storage I lost.

Thanks! For the door speakers, are they simply connected to the factory wiring or did you need a dedicated amp for them?

 

[JaxRangerXLT]

Thanks! For the door speakers, are they simply connected to the factory wiring or did you need a dedicated amp for them?

Everything but the subwoofer I am running off factory. It is good enough sounding for me after upgrading the speakers.

 

[dard6555]

Couple questions. Has anyone measured the voice coil resistance on the B&O sub to see what it was? Has anyone hooked this sub up to the factory B&O amp? The 2 ohm load of the JL Audio seems a little much for the factory amp.

 

[Bonus Oz]

what are these zips in the front seats ? we dont have those in Oz . would explain the saggy seat covers if there put on as an after thought ??
Also your carpet looks a bit Nissan . really glad we dont get that .

 

[JaxRangerXLT]

Can you tell me how you got sound to amp. Trying to figure that out now. Did you just come off the rear speakers?

You could definitely tap the rear speakers to whatever you are using to process into a signal for the amp. I just always go to the front speakers by default as they usually have a full signal.

I used JL LoC22 to get my signal converted for hooking up to amp. Some amps have this built in so no need for something like the LoC22. I really like the it as it has the option of sensing power to speakers which then turns on the remote turn on feature so there isn't a need to run remote power tapped into a fuse. Saves on time. Hope this helps

 

[JaxRangerXLT]

Sorry for all the questions. Did you go to both front door speakers or just one side?

No worries. I just tapped one side as I am only using the sub for now so I just used a jumper on the LoC22 to jump from the right side to the left inputs so the signal for remote turn on worked. If you are going to power multiple speakers from an amp I would definitely tap both sides.

I do believe the back door speakers do get full range just from listening but I do not have anyway of verifying that other than my ears. Definitely will save on running speaker wire.

 

[JaxRangerXLT]

Another dumb question. I’ve had both front and back door panels off. Can’t figure out how to get the wires from door to cab. Can you enlighten a dumb ass like me on what you did. Tried to trace them and tap them from cab side. Still can’t figure it out. I’m afraid of tapping the wrong wire. Any help would be appreciated.

I just want to make sure I'm on same page. You are just trying to tap for a signal for an amp?

I know for sure because I just tapped it today. Left front door speaker is Blue + and Gray -.

I just spliced into the blue with my positive speaker wire and gray negative wire. Then ran it from the door to cab. I tucked into the trim to hide it. ran it to my line out converter which for me is JL LoC 22. Which I am hiding behind rear bench seat. Now, I'm not sure what you have. I know some amps come with that integrated so without specifics I am just guessing.

Here is speaker wire info that is pretty close if not same on some but it is for rangers 5G, but its been right for fronts and tweeters.

Left front door speakers (base model) positive (+): blue or green/orange, negative (-): gray/brown or gray/orange
Right front door speakers (base model) positive (+): yellow/orange, negative (-): green/brown or violet/orange
Left rear speaker (base model) positive (+): gray/violet, negative (-): brown/green or brown/white
Right rear speaker (base model) positive (+): green/violet, negative (-): gray
Left front door tweeter (with amp) positive (+): blue/gray, negative (-): green/brown
Right front door tweeter (with amp) positive (+): green/violet, negative (-): white/orange
Left front door woofer (with amp) positive (+): white, negative (-): white/brown
Right front door woofer (with amp) positive (+): white/violet, negative (-): white/orange

Hope this helps points you in the right direction.

 

[JaxRangerXLT]

The first pick is my front right door and second is my rear right door. I can’t figure out how to get the wires from door to cab. Can’t even get to rubber boot from inside of door more less run it through that screwed up rubber boot that has wire connectors on cab side. That’s where I’m struggling. Just has me puzzled on what to do.

Ok, what I have done is less elegant for trying to get it through the boot. Just more time than I am willing to spend personally.

So all I do for tapping the wires is remove some of the tessa tape to expose more of the wire. Then I use wire stripper to peel back a section without cutting the wire. Then I splice my speaker wire to the exposed wire then use electric tape and tessa tape over that. There are other ways like using this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YB123S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

but they are not always reliable over time or if you know how to solder you can solder your speaker wire to stock wire.

Now the less elegant part. Using the front door as an example. I just run it from the door to the cab. I pull back the weather strip and run my speaker wire behind it. If you look closely about half way up the cab under the weather strip is two little small indentions. I used those but they are barely indentions but better than nothing. Just pressed the weather strip back into place. The exposed speaker wire between the cab and door I just tessa tape the whole thing really well to keep from being pinched/exposed some way.

If you are dead set on trying to go through the boot here is a tutorial from a great youtube installer with great helpful vids on a lot of installing techniques.

 

[1986YellowRanger]

This guy installed a sub behind the back seat. Note that he makes a lot of stupid mistakes in many of his videos, but at least you can see what he purchased and that the sub itself appears to fit behind the seat.

 

[hand-filer]

I'm also considering the Stealthtech box with this speaker: Hertz MPS 250 S2 shallow subwoofer
I've used JL Audio components on several builds. Time for something different.

 

[RRaptor24]

I'm also considering the Stealthtech box with this speaker: Hertz MPS 250 S2 shallow subwoofer
I've used JL Audio components on several builds. Time for something different.

I ordered the sub enclosure from Australia, the Kicker KXA 800.1 from Amazon, The Hertz Mille Pro 250 woofer then I got the plug and play adapter from Soundsgoodstereo web page. Works amazing. No cutting into wires. Sounds fantastic

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...-o-including-unleashed-read-description-below

https://volunteeraudio.com/product/hertz-mps-250-s2

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1926103196...-aneEvjQ1K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[hand-filer]

Very clean installation. Pretty much exactly what I have in mind. I have an older MTX Thunder Elite Class D mono amp that puts out a nice clean 869 watts @ 2 ohms. I hope to eventually use it in the Ranger.
This saves me a lot of time researching what I need.

 

[JaxRangerXLT]

I ordered the sub enclosure from Australia, the Kicker KXA 800.1 from Amazon, The Hertz Mille Pro 250 woofer then I got the plug and play adapter from Soundsgoodstereo web page. Works amazing. No cutting into wires. Sounds fantastic

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...-o-including-unleashed-read-description-below

https://volunteeraudio.com/product/hertz-mps-250-s2

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1926103196...-aneEvjQ1K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

That looks very nice and clean.

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