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pablo94sc

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Plastic, metal... doesn't make a lick of difference. You get an aftermarket air box to keep the filter from drawing in air from the engine bay and to add bling. The factory air box already is drawing in air from outside the engine bay, so this only adds bling. If you like the looks, get it. If you don't, don't get it. Simple as that. Every other argument made here is pointless.
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Ivan Baez

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I have this intake in my truck since more than one year. I like the looks of it and the larger air filtering capacity. In my case it did increase the IATs initially.
What I did was to cover it externally with insulation to prevent heat soak and it worked because the raptor engine is very sensitive to IAT and pulls in timing immediately. I have a post in there where some pics are shown.
I serviced the filters a couple of weeks ago, pretty straight forward as a k&n, with the exeption that the normal filter degreaser could not remove the oil they put on. I jad to use a stronger degreaser to clean them.
 

John B

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No one is arguing, your comments are being challenged. I’d suggest; if you’re not looking to be challenged, then don’t present an opinion as an absolutely statement. Additionally, you’ve just contradicted yourself in your second paragraph of the comment above.

Heat soak is cumulative, especially at low or slow speeds. If you’re not moving a larger volume of air thru the radiator, pushing heat out thru the bottom of the engine compartment, ambient engine compartment rise. Moving the ambient engine compartment air is then dependent solely upon the fan to pull air into and thru the engine bay. If you’re not replacing the ambient air in the engine quickly, heat soak will increase much quicker.

Metal air boxes, aluminum etc, act just like an oven when heat soaked. Unless it’s exchanging engine bay ambient air at a higher rate, it will heat soak and hold higher temps. This is one of the reasons most all OEM air-boxes are made of some type of; heat resistant, polymer plastic. It’s also less expensive. Snow me a metal air-box or intake, produced by any major OEM auto manufacture?

The other reason some aftermarket manufactures design metal intakes and air boxes are; they don’t have the capability or capacity to 3-D design or injection mold. It’s not because a metal intake is a better design, operate cooler or produce a more efficient air flow. A smooth interior, polymer air intake will.

Additionally, smaller turbocharged engines produce higher operating and ambient engine compartment temps, especially with twin turbochargers.
Even when shutting off the engine, engine oil, coolant and ambient temps will rise for the first 15 minutes, due to radiant and reflective heat from the block, turbochargers and crankcase and coolant system.

If you’re not using any reflective surface to reject the engine bay heat, it will eventually heat soak. Heat soak will effect hp production more in a NA engine, than a turbocharged or supercharged engine.👍🇺🇸
I'm not at all disagreeing with you. As I get older, I do kind of "black box" stuff like this since there really are multiple variables involved with the 2 issues of concern; air flow/restrictions and IATs. Those were my target issues putting together my 800hp shelby mustang. FWIW re metal vs plastic air boxes; the answer depends on the weight of the metal airbox vs the plastic. Metal airboxes can retain more heat energy than the plastic of equal size/weight, when added to the heat transfer ability of the metal, make metal much less desirable. But this argument misses what's really important. IATs on boosted engines is most impacted by supercharger/turbo efficiency (less for turbos) and intercooler efficiency. From where I stand, it appears that the greatest gains with the RR will be from a better intercooler and larger/with less severe bends, piping beyond the actual airbox. Unless you are just into looks and don't want to mess with those other needs, you're really just wasting your time and money.
 

Arsenall11

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It’s for the looks if you like it, they don’t do shit, had AME on 21 F150 and the Roush on my 16, no difference from stock based on the dyno we r,Ann it on. Livernoise tune on them and then you saw an up tick on the dyno.
 

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Tomikaze

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There sure are a lot of experts on this site:) How about some real world dyno numbers that a simpleton like myself can understand. Love the idea of an improved intake/airbox. But I’m guessing the gains per dollar here are low. That being said it looks great. Opinions are like… everyone has one.
 

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For anyone here that's had the Ford Performance Calibration.... Any ideas on how a new CAI will affect things if at all?
 

Catalyst

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For anyone here that's had the Ford Performance Calibration.... Any ideas on how a new CAI will affect things if at all?
I’d be surprised if there’s a difference. FP didn’t even change the filter in this calibration package like they have in the past for other platforms. I anticipate there’s ample flow for the tune and air/fuel mapping they utilize with the OE intake and filter.

If there are gains to be had with a better flowing intake, you’re likely in custom tune territory to realize those gains. FP has to appeal to the masses with an off the shelf tune, and with a warranty I’m sure there’s some headroom there too.
 

Goldylox22

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No one is arguing, your comments are being challenged. I’d suggest; if you’re not looking to be challenged, then don’t present an opinion as an absolutely statement. Additionally, you’ve just contradicted yourself in your second paragraph of the comment above.

Heat soak is cumulative, especially at low or slow speeds. If you’re not moving a larger volume of air thru the radiator, pushing heat out thru the bottom of the engine compartment, ambient engine compartment rise. Moving the ambient engine compartment air is then dependent solely upon the fan to pull air into and thru the engine bay. If you’re not replacing the ambient air in the engine quickly, heat soak will increase much quicker.

Metal air boxes, aluminum etc, act just like an oven when heat soaked. Unless it’s exchanging engine bay ambient air at a higher rate, it will heat soak and hold higher temps. This is one of the reasons most all OEM air-boxes are made of some type of; heat resistant, polymer plastic. It’s also less expensive. Snow me a metal air-box or intake, produced by any major OEM auto manufacture?

The other reason some aftermarket manufactures design metal intakes and air boxes are; they don’t have the capability or capacity to 3-D design or injection mold. It’s not because a metal intake is a better design, operate cooler or produce a more efficient air flow. A smooth interior, polymer air intake will.

Additionally, smaller turbocharged engines produce higher operating and ambient engine compartment temps, especially with twin turbochargers.
Even when shutting off the engine, engine oil, coolant and ambient temps will rise for the first 15 minutes, due to radiant and reflective heat from the block, turbochargers and crankcase and coolant system.

If you’re not using any reflective surface to reject the engine bay heat, it will eventually heat soak. Heat soak will effect hp production more in a NA engine, than a turbocharged or supercharged engine.👍🇺🇸
Thoughts on Carbon Fiber intake and air boxes? Saw one just came out that fits twin K&N filters… from everything I’ve read and understand so far, that hypothetically could make a slight improvement
 

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Thoughts on Carbon Fiber intake and air boxes? Saw one just came out that fits twin K&N filters… from everything I’ve read and understand so far, that hypothetically could make a slight improvement
Carbon fiber is the most preferred material for high end air boxes. Light weight, strong, and good thermal properties. Most of your exotic cars run carbon fiber air boxes. Who makes one for the RR?
 

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Goldylox22

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RANGER/HOBB

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Thoughts on Carbon Fiber intake and air boxes? Saw one just came out that fits twin K&N filters… from everything I’ve read and understand so far, that hypothetically could make a slight improvement
Carbon fiber intakes are; expensive, overkill for any OEM application and provide minimal advantages over aftermarket polymer plastic intakes. Yes, they’re lighter, they have slightly better heat rejection, however these are minimal differences. The cons for their use are; maintenance of the CF itself and this is where they loose out to the polymer units.

It ought to provide usable whp gains and I’d definitely consider it over any metal constructed box. Keep in mind, they’re still utilizing the OEM intake sized tubing. This will cause some flow restrictions. I think there are alternate tubing available for the FMIC and intake already.

Some intakes provide much greater CFM improvements over restrictive OEM intakes. Why, they don’t take in consideration noise abatement/emissions requirements and aren’t restricted by them.

They generally provide much better CFM flow characteristic's, due to the size of the intake tubing, greater Venturi effect, internal air-box dimensions (meaning larger area). Also meaning, a cooler larger gulp of air, which leads to better combustion overall.

Most aftermarket intakes if well designed, can provide increases upwards of 10 whp. In some, I’ve seen as much as 15-18 whp (Toyota GR Corolla) on the dynamometer.

Filtration has a great impact upon the CFM flow characteristic’s and performance. What most owners are looking for is; a happy medium for the highly restrictive OEM filtration system.

This is one of the reasons Ford Performance sells K & N’s with most all of their tuning upgrades. They’re also used as OEM equipment on several variations of the Performance Mustangs past and present.

If it’s good enough for Ford and Ford Performance, it’s good enough for me. Been using them for over 40 years on many different performance models, without any engine problems or warranty issues.

The only reason FP isn’t selling or offering it with the RR FP tune is; K&N hasn’t released it for resale for the RR.

However, the 3.0L Bronco Raptor K & N fits exactly but the manufacturer still have to verify it for themselves. 👍🇺🇸
 
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pablo94sc

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What Hobbs is saying is that if you install a CAI system on a vehicle to support a larger MAF and TB, you'll see gains. Everything else is pretty much the same marketing falsehoods spread about such and such mods = gains, like saying OEM filters are too restrictive. OEM type paper filters flow extremely well, and the added protection they provide against dust ingress is worth the 1-2hp you might leave on the table using one. K&N has incredible marketing, but dyno results of mine and my friends cars over the last 25 years or so tell me they aren't worth the price. Maybe they used to be worth it, but nowadays it's moot.
 

Arsenall11

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I’d be surprised if there’s a difference. FP didn’t even change the filter in this calibration package like they have in the past for other platforms. I anticipate there’s ample flow for the tune and air/fuel mapping they utilize with the OE intake and filter.

If there are gains to be had with a better flowing intake, you’re likely in custom tune territory to realize those gains. FP has to appeal to the masses with an off the shelf tune, and with a warranty I’m sure there’s some headroom there too.
What part of the NW are you in?
 

Catalyst

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