Salty
Member
Hey fellas, this goes out to the experienced. Would you recommend the single or dual valve option CC? Does the dual valve require any mods to the intake pipes? Completely inexperienced in this topic. Thanks
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I chatted with a guy from the place I posted the deal. Here is his input.Hey fellas, this goes out to the experienced. Would you recommend the single or dual valve option CC? Does the dual valve require any mods to the intake pipes? Completely inexperienced in this topic. Thanks
Yes, you do need to drill a hole in the intake pipe for the dual valve model. The install instructions for both models are on the UPR page and easy to read prior to ordering.I chatted with a guy from the place I posted the deal. Here is his input.
"So the Dual valve is basically a suction line ad that helps draw it out. It is kind of the best of the best but it is pretty overkill for a stock daily driver yeah. If you start dabbling in ethanol and tuning and things like turbo upgrades and stuff down the road it's a good thing to have but definitely overkill for what's on the market right now as a rule."
He also thought single is fine for stage 1 type stuff like a tune. Guess I can swap it out if I ever decide to make poor decisions and over mod it.
I think the dual valve does require a hole in intake pipe but don't quote me.
Yea. I ordered the dual and then realized too late that it required drilling. I sent an email to UPR to see if they'll let me swap it back out for the single. It's within 30 days, so maybe I'll just have to pay for shipping.With the truck being new and under warranty I went with single can so it can be easily removed before dealer service.
Oh, that's a great idea!! Where did you get the plugs?I wasn't paying attention when I ordered mine and got the dual.
It's essentially the same as the single with the exception of that is has another hole tapped into the top for the clean intake elbow.
I just bought a 5 pack of stainless steel 1/4 npt hex plugs, put some orange permatex thread sealant on a plug and installed the plug.
No leaks and it works like the single and I also have the option of going to the dual later on, if I wish to do so.
I tried to find what I wanted locally but to my surprise I couldn't, so I ordered these from Amazon.Oh, that's a great idea!! Where did you get the plugs?
I just received a response from UPR with another great idea.Oh, that's a great idea!! Where did you get the plugs?
I may just purchase these rubber vacuum caps from Amazon.UPR Products Sales<sales@uprproducts.com> said:You can cap the un used fitting for the WOT hose by removing it and installing a 1/4NPT fitting, or just use a rubber vacuum cap over the un used fitting. There isn't any pressure at that fitting.
If you try to remove the fitting from the catch can, there is a good chance you will damage it.
Yes, UPR is working well and quality similar to J&L I’ve had on other vehicles.Everyone happy with their UPR purchase so far? I've always had J&L oil seperators on previous vehicles and seemed to be a great product. Thus far they don't show one for the Ranger Raptor though. Wouldn't it be the same for the Bronco Raptor? J&L does list one for that.
I am still using mine and mostly happy with it. I installed the full dual valve version, which plumbs a line to the intake tube that feeds the passenger side turbo. Once I receive the replacement intake tube I will be removing that line and having it configured as just the standard single valve. It is my understanding that the stock PCV system closes off when under boost, so it seems having that extra line to evacuate the can under boost is not really gaining anything. I'll also check the can for oil volume while I'm doing that.Everyone happy with their UPR purchase so far? I've always had J&L oil seperators on previous vehicles and seemed to be a great product. Thus far they don't show one for the Ranger Raptor though. Wouldn't it be the same for the Bronco Raptor? J&L does list one for that.