What's the size of the stock subwoofer?Installed a 10" sub. Found the factory wire harness connector Ford p/n WPT-1456 so I didn't have to cut the factory harness on the stock sub. There are 2 versions, one with pigtails and one without. I got the one without so had to crimp the uninsulated connectors. Just depends on the tools you have and amount you want to spend. Pigtail is about 4 times the cost I think but you spice those, whereas this one you crimp and plug.
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It's better than stock but not winning any SPL awards. As you can see it doesn't take up much space at all, pretty much replaced the stock sub. I've also got sound deadening mat ready to go but I'll save that for another day.
- Stock sub is something like 5 1/4". Sounds good for what it is but a 5 1/4" can only do so much, even with DVC and a fancy designed box.What's the size of the stock subwoofer?
Which Kicker model is this?
Where would you be planning to lay down some DynaMat?
Tough trying to keep up with you and these mods lol
Haha it doesn't ever end does it?- Stock sub is something like 5 1/4". Sounds good for what it is but a 5 1/4" can only do so much, even with DVC and a fancy designed box.
- The sub I picked up is the Kicker 46HS10, 10" hide away sub. It's ok, not sure if it's worth the price. I'll have to see if I can tweak it and adjust the settings some to get it sounding better. It is still better than stock. They do kave both a 8" and 10" that are similar in size and both fit where the stock sub goes. In reality, the sub that goes in the cubby under the seat is the best sounding option and something I'll upgrade to at some point when I do a full system swap. Eventually I'd like to do the mObridge plug-n-play kit and swap out all the speakers.
- I plan on adding sound deadening to the doors first along with some egg foam right behind the speakers. I'll likely do the rear of the cab at the same time. I wish I would have been able to sneak in and do the roof when I had some hail dings removed. They had the headliner off and that would have been perfect time. I'll have to do that when I get some time and motivation. Floors will likely be last. I did the CTS-V and it made quite a difference. I'm not coating every surface, mostly just eliminating harmonic resonances and vibrations, making everything more solid.
As for mods, I also have a BOV coming so that's going on tonight lol. Just wait until I start engine mods. The modding will never end.![]()
I haven't mounted it permanently yet. The jack holds it in place on the bottom and the rest of the sub is wedged between the seat when it's up. The back of the sub rests in the recess for the stock sub almost perfectly so there's no lateral movement. I think those subs are designed to just sit under a seat, hence their low profile. I will 3D print a bracket and utilize the stock sub mount bolt for the top and maybe do the same for the bottom. It would be pretty easy to make something far simpler to hold it in place though.Haha it doesn't ever end does it?
Regarding mounting the new Kicker sub did you have to do any drilling to mount?
I thought about a cubby seat sub but I ended up putting a console vault there instead.
Don’t get me wrong either - I also love the look and everything you have done is very tasteful; but I’m not paying that kind of money either. I can’t even imagine what my answer would be if my wife asked me what this $600 AMEX charge is forToo each their own.. I love the look
By the time you install the BOV, you won't even be able hear it anymore... LOL!- Stock sub is something like 5 1/4". Sounds good for what it is but a 5 1/4" can only do so much, even with DVC and a fancy designed box.
- The sub I picked up is the Kicker 46HS10, 10" hide away sub. It's ok, not sure if it's worth the price. I'll have to see if I can tweak it and adjust the settings some to get it sounding better. It is still better than stock. They do kave both a 8" and 10" that are similar in size and both fit where the stock sub goes. In reality, the sub that goes in the cubby under the seat is the best sounding option and something I'll upgrade to at some point when I do a full system swap. Eventually I'd like to do the mObridge plug-n-play kit and swap out all the speakers.
- I plan on adding sound deadening to the doors first along with some egg foam right behind the speakers. I'll likely do the rear of the cab at the same time. I wish I would have been able to sneak in and do the roof when I had some hail dings removed. They had the headliner off and that would have been perfect time. I'll have to do that when I get some time and motivation. Floors will likely be last. I did the CTS-V and it made quite a difference. I'm not coating every surface, mostly just eliminating harmonic resonances and vibrations, making everything more solid.
As for mods, I also have a BOV coming so that's going on tonight lol. Just wait until I start engine mods. The modding will never end.![]()
I totally understand. Was not easy parting with that much $ for the parts. Just wanted something unique. But they are definitely more $ than many are gonna spend for them.Don’t get me wrong either - I also love the look and everything you have done is very tasteful; but I’m not paying that kind of money either. I can’t even imagine what my answer would be if my wife asked me what this $600 AMEX charge is for![]()
Me too.Too each their own.. I love the look