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RapVillin

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That's a hard pass. Would not even pay what they are asking for shipping. Looks Good though OP. 😘
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jrRaptor

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Installed a 10" sub. Found the factory wire harness connector Ford p/n WPT-1456 so I didn't have to cut the factory harness on the stock sub. There are 2 versions, one with pigtails and one without. I got the one without so had to crimp the uninsulated connectors. Just depends on the tools you have and amount you want to spend. Pigtail is about 4 times the cost I think but you spice those, whereas this one you crimp and plug.

Ford Ranger What did you DO TO your 6G Ranger today? 🧰 🛠️ ⚙️ 🧽 20240521_173945


Ford Ranger What did you DO TO your 6G Ranger today? 🧰 🛠️ ⚙️ 🧽 20240521_153343


Ford Ranger What did you DO TO your 6G Ranger today? 🧰 🛠️ ⚙️ 🧽 20240521_154732


It's better than stock but not winning any SPL awards. As you can see it doesn't take up much space at all, pretty much replaced the stock sub. I've also got sound deadening mat ready to go but I'll save that for another day.
 

Rapture2423

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Installed a 10" sub. Found the factory wire harness connector Ford p/n WPT-1456 so I didn't have to cut the factory harness on the stock sub. There are 2 versions, one with pigtails and one without. I got the one without so had to crimp the uninsulated connectors. Just depends on the tools you have and amount you want to spend. Pigtail is about 4 times the cost I think but you spice those, whereas this one you crimp and plug.

20240521_173945.jpg


20240521_153343.jpg


20240521_154732.jpg


It's better than stock but not winning any SPL awards. As you can see it doesn't take up much space at all, pretty much replaced the stock sub. I've also got sound deadening mat ready to go but I'll save that for another day.
What's the size of the stock subwoofer?
Which Kicker model is this?
Where would you be planning to lay down some DynaMat?

Tough trying to keep up with you and these mods lol
 

jrRaptor

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What's the size of the stock subwoofer?
Which Kicker model is this?
Where would you be planning to lay down some DynaMat?

Tough trying to keep up with you and these mods lol
- Stock sub is something like 5 1/4". Sounds good for what it is but a 5 1/4" can only do so much, even with DVC and a fancy designed box.

- The sub I picked up is the Kicker 46HS10, 10" hide away sub. It's ok, not sure if it's worth the price. I'll have to see if I can tweak it and adjust the settings some to get it sounding better. It is still better than stock. They do kave both a 8" and 10" that are similar in size and both fit where the stock sub goes. In reality, the sub that goes in the cubby under the seat is the best sounding option and something I'll upgrade to at some point when I do a full system swap. Eventually I'd like to do the mObridge plug-n-play kit and swap out all the speakers.

- I plan on adding sound deadening to the doors first along with some egg foam right behind the speakers. I'll likely do the rear of the cab at the same time. I wish I would have been able to sneak in and do the roof when I had some hail dings removed. They had the headliner off and that would have been perfect time. I'll have to do that when I get some time and motivation. Floors will likely be last. I did the CTS-V and it made quite a difference. I'm not coating every surface, mostly just eliminating harmonic resonances and vibrations, making everything more solid.

As for mods, I also have a BOV coming so that's going on tonight lol. Just wait until I start engine mods. The modding will never end. 😈
 

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Rapture2423

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- Stock sub is something like 5 1/4". Sounds good for what it is but a 5 1/4" can only do so much, even with DVC and a fancy designed box.

- The sub I picked up is the Kicker 46HS10, 10" hide away sub. It's ok, not sure if it's worth the price. I'll have to see if I can tweak it and adjust the settings some to get it sounding better. It is still better than stock. They do kave both a 8" and 10" that are similar in size and both fit where the stock sub goes. In reality, the sub that goes in the cubby under the seat is the best sounding option and something I'll upgrade to at some point when I do a full system swap. Eventually I'd like to do the mObridge plug-n-play kit and swap out all the speakers.

- I plan on adding sound deadening to the doors first along with some egg foam right behind the speakers. I'll likely do the rear of the cab at the same time. I wish I would have been able to sneak in and do the roof when I had some hail dings removed. They had the headliner off and that would have been perfect time. I'll have to do that when I get some time and motivation. Floors will likely be last. I did the CTS-V and it made quite a difference. I'm not coating every surface, mostly just eliminating harmonic resonances and vibrations, making everything more solid.

As for mods, I also have a BOV coming so that's going on tonight lol. Just wait until I start engine mods. The modding will never end. 😈
Haha it doesn't ever end does it?

Regarding mounting the new Kicker sub did you have to do any drilling to mount?

I thought about a cubby seat sub but I ended up putting a console vault there instead.
 

jrRaptor

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Haha it doesn't ever end does it?

Regarding mounting the new Kicker sub did you have to do any drilling to mount?

I thought about a cubby seat sub but I ended up putting a console vault there instead.
I haven't mounted it permanently yet. The jack holds it in place on the bottom and the rest of the sub is wedged between the seat when it's up. The back of the sub rests in the recess for the stock sub almost perfectly so there's no lateral movement. I think those subs are designed to just sit under a seat, hence their low profile. I will 3D print a bracket and utilize the stock sub mount bolt for the top and maybe do the same for the bottom. It would be pretty easy to make something far simpler to hold it in place though.
 

Cyrusblack

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Too each their own.. I love the look
Don’t get me wrong either - I also love the look and everything you have done is very tasteful; but I’m not paying that kind of money either. I can’t even imagine what my answer would be if my wife asked me what this $600 AMEX charge is for 😳
 

DMC

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- Stock sub is something like 5 1/4". Sounds good for what it is but a 5 1/4" can only do so much, even with DVC and a fancy designed box.

- The sub I picked up is the Kicker 46HS10, 10" hide away sub. It's ok, not sure if it's worth the price. I'll have to see if I can tweak it and adjust the settings some to get it sounding better. It is still better than stock. They do kave both a 8" and 10" that are similar in size and both fit where the stock sub goes. In reality, the sub that goes in the cubby under the seat is the best sounding option and something I'll upgrade to at some point when I do a full system swap. Eventually I'd like to do the mObridge plug-n-play kit and swap out all the speakers.

- I plan on adding sound deadening to the doors first along with some egg foam right behind the speakers. I'll likely do the rear of the cab at the same time. I wish I would have been able to sneak in and do the roof when I had some hail dings removed. They had the headliner off and that would have been perfect time. I'll have to do that when I get some time and motivation. Floors will likely be last. I did the CTS-V and it made quite a difference. I'm not coating every surface, mostly just eliminating harmonic resonances and vibrations, making everything more solid.

As for mods, I also have a BOV coming so that's going on tonight lol. Just wait until I start engine mods. The modding will never end. 😈
By the time you install the BOV, you won't even be able hear it anymore... LOL!
 

Bt_okst

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Don’t get me wrong either - I also love the look and everything you have done is very tasteful; but I’m not paying that kind of money either. I can’t even imagine what my answer would be if my wife asked me what this $600 AMEX charge is for 😳
I totally understand. Was not easy parting with that much $ for the parts. Just wanted something unique. But they are definitely more $ than many are gonna spend for them.
 
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cc1999

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Too each their own.. I love the look
Me too.
Well I should say that I liked the looks of the front bezels enough that I order the fronts today.
I really like how those tie the front lights into the grill and all seems to match up really nice.
Sort of completes the look.

The rear looks nice, but I didn't see the same sort of value there, so I only ordered the fronts.
I was thinking I could live without the rears and save the 300+


Thanks for sharing the info.
Much Appreciated.

With Shipping and tax the front pair only comes out to $392 US.
Still pretty pricy but I do like how they tie it all together with the grill.


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cc1999

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My J-braces finally shipped yesterday.

Been on backorder the past couple weeks.

The truck goes into my local custom shop tonight for the clear bra and side step removal, and vinyl wrap and cladding will get installed below the doors to protect the belly from rock ships since the steps are coming off.
 

pablo94sc

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Ordered T-track to install in the bed for tool storage and organization, and additional tie down points.
 

millertime496

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Those lights look sick!



This is not a complaint. I work for an oem I understand shits happens. Im posting this as a question to has this happened to any one yet and make people who havent taken there truck from the dealers directly to the mountains. I want to know if this happens to you. I meant to ask the service write to see if you see the time of the first occurance, and if he could tell set condtion. That way I could tell where on the trail I was based on my onx bread crums. Because I love data and fault analysis. Like I said I work for an oem.

I do not know if onx is that detailed but I would love to find out, oh wonder if my ford app could see.

I had a ford tech come to my house, to diagnose my blinspont/cross trafic fault.
Which set while exploring some forest roads, with water in spots. Was with the wife so nothing rough at all, I think i used 4x once to get up into a camp spot.

But at some point the fualt set, the most likey was at 25ish mph through a puddle. Because based on my f150 would set that fault in mud until I wash it.

So I thought it interesting that a raptor would be that sensitive but not much other thought, assuming it would clear with a wash.

So I washed it, twice sprayed and hand wiped all sensors, and it stayed on. So I ran to the dealer, kind of expecting to get the red carpet based on the truck and the mark up. But the firs service manger wouldnt even look at what sensor in the ford remote diag portal and told me he might be able to get me in 3 weeks. FUCK YOU BUDDY.

Went out to the truck about to google if could fix it myself. Then my sales dude rocks up with a customer who wants to check out the truck. So we start talking i tell them the breaks lack performance, customer said he had heard that, from me on here perhaps!!!!

And the sales dude asks whats up like why are you at service youve had your truck 10 days, and i told him. He told me to go in and go to the right and talk to mobile because im so close to the dealer, and he asked, knowing. what I do if I thought it would take long to diag, and I said assimg it isnt a long set conditon, i know it sets in heavy rain, and if the calibration. So I go talk to mobil, dude comes to my house the next day, diags, calibration was pretty long, and failed 6 degrees or precent out, I cant remember which he said. And hed order the part and his team would schedule the repair. FAN FREAKING TASTIC. So I assumed it would be a bit, supply chain or bay space, I get it. The called me today, the day of diag, to tell they could come friday. AMAZING. Huge thanks to the mobile team, and my sales dude.


Sorry about the lower case "i" im laying at an odd angle and shift is hard and instead of sitting up id rather be lazy.
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