Ranger Raptor - 35’s

[mykrrrr]

a little louder for the people in the back.

Won't matter...these kids don't listen.

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[rwolfcastle]

Ford has a marketing plan called “buzz car” that they use to promote a product line with. Traditionally yes they save these for later in the model year but lately we have been co-developing them for a launch option, like the Mustang Dark Horse. The Rangers buzz car is the “Skeletor” but there’s been so much hardship with bringing it to light sadly. P703 for North America is really behind the ball on milestones right now.

Skeletor? I don't know what that is but it sounds sexy.

 

[ThickGatorade]

Skeletor? I don't know what that is but it sounds sexy.

I guess you could say it’s bad to the bone

 

[Acesraptor]

OK, so having read all of this thread and everything else I can find on here and most of the internet, would any of you guys have opinions as to whether this would work? I'm in the UK so some tyre/tire and wheel options either just aren't available or have to be shipped in which makes it far more expensive...


2024 Raptor V6 (due january maybe)
Eibach pro lift kit (40mm front 30mm rear) - I have this kit ready to go.
KMC Trek or Black Rhino Stadium 17x8 ET35 rims
315/70 R17 tyres

From what i can see / find the wheel will sit almost the same as stock on the inside face (0.19" further out from the truck), be 0.85" closer to the top of the fender well than stock and sit 1.39" further out (poke) than stock. With the new wheel offset and slight lift from the eibachs could this eradicate rubbing or worse?

 

[jensht]

OK, so having read all of this thread and everything else I can find on here and most of the internet, would any of you guys have opinions as to whether this would work? I'm in the UK so some tyre/tire and wheel options either just aren't available or have to be shipped in which makes it far more expensive...


2024 Raptor V6 (due january maybe)
Eibach pro lift kit (40mm front 30mm rear) - I have this kit ready to go.
KMC Trek 17x8 ET35 rims
315/70 R17 tyres

From what i can see / find the wheel will sit almost the same as stock on the inside face (0.19" further out from the truck), be 0.85" closer to the top of the fender well than stock and sit 1.39" further out (poke) than stock. With the new wheel offset and slight lift from the eibachs could this eradicate rubbing or worse?

I don't think a lift with help with rubbing at full articulation. But if you don't plan to max out the front suspension, then even without a lift it should be fine. I had the same wheels size and tire size, and for normal driving it was fine once the front mud flaps where removed and the trim behind the mud flap trimmed a little.

 

[Acesraptor]

I don't think a lift with help with rubbing at full articulation. But if you don't plan to max out the front suspension, then even without a lift it should be fine. I had the same wheels size and tire size, and for normal driving it was fine once the front mud flaps where removed and the trim behind the kid flap trimmed a little.

I have the eibachs ready to go on the truck so that is happening regardless of wheel stuff! I'd say its unlikely i'm going to max out the front suspension, it will be more of a show pony than full attack off roader so the wheels are more for looks than trekking through the wild although I still want it to be as capable as the stock truck just in case...

 

[Yague]

Hi…
Anyone have a link of weight and real dimensions table for off road tires?

 

[UpInTheAir]

I believe the stock Raptor tires are BFG KO3s in 285/70-17. TireRack shows them coming in at 56lbs and 32.8" in diameter.

SELECTED SIZE
Size: LT285/70R17
Service Description: 116/113S Service Description
Load Range: C Load Range
UTQG: NoneUTQG
Max. Load: 2,755 lbs
Max. Inflation Pressure: 50 psi
Tread Depth: 15/32"
Tire Weight: 56 lbs
Rim Width Range: 7.5-9"
Meas. Rim Width: 8.5"
Sect. Width: 11.5"
Tread Width: 8.8"
Overall Diam.: 32.8"
Revs. Per Mile: 635
Country of Origin*: US

 

[Yague]

Hi
I’m still searching for wheel set to the RR, and still dreaming on 35’s
From my research's, the more negative the wheel off set, more rubbing expected. Since the OEM offset is positive 55, and 95% off the wheels options vary from zero to minus 35/45, should we consider a 35” tires on the stock wheel with the +55 offset?
Anyone have tried this?

 

[Rda2w]

I came across this video today where they put 35s on OEM beadlock wheels with 50mm spacers. I don't know if the spacers were needed. They did a quick fit w/o the spacers and it looked to fit OK. In the end it took a bit of trimming for clearance on the front but they do look good.

 

[Yague]

1. 
   

2. I came across this video today where they put 35s on OEM beadlock wheels with 50mm spacers. I don't know if the spacers were needed. They did a quick fit w/o the spacers and it looked to fit OK. In the end it took a bit of trimming for clearance on the front but they do look good.
   
   

3. Nice video. Unfortunately they didn’t check If the 35s on the original rim fit without trim. With the 50mm spacers the free space will decrease for sure. Thats almost a zero offset.

 

[LFRR13]

I just want to know what exactly all you pro-35 people need that addition 2" of lift for?
Further more, there appears to be a lot of haphazard ideas for lifting, without taking into account legitimate engineering done to achieve the stock vehicle.

Having watched many of the "lifted" videos present on YouTube, regardless of wheel offset or width, 35s will rub. Point. Blank. Period. Mods need to be made, and many have, under the assumption that their somehow smarter than the engineers who designed the vehicle.

And the notion that the smaller 33" stockers weren't somehow done intentionally, rather than out of laziness is hilarious. That's basic physics, rotational mass, and rotational inertia. Even IF the 35" package weighs the same or less, that whole circle requires more power to move and stop.

I think the lot of you have bought too far into YouTubers clamoring for 35s, to now assume that should be the default. 10yr ago, you all probably wanted 33s.

 

[Rda2w]

It’s not unique here. The aftermarket craze exists in all Powersports. I’ll agree that these days, for all around use, it’s hard to out engineer the factory. There are cases though where improvements can be made for specific applications, like hardcore off-roading. Maybe someone needs more ground clearance and floatation for how they’re using their truck. I’m past the days of modding vehicles for performance whether it’s my snowmobile, atv or truck. I do believe though that people can make smart changes if they know what they want to improve and what they’ll be trading off in doing so.

You would have a good laugh following the snowmobile forums and the changes people make (exhaust, clutching, gearing, etc) before they have even had their new sled on the snow. They have no way of measuring any changes they’ve made, better or worse.

 

[gdub]

I just want to know what exactly all you pro-35 people need that addition 2" of lift for?

Just to be more correct, 35" tires don't provide 2" lift over 33" tires. It is provides only 1" more ground clearance.

 

[LFRR13]

It’s not unique here. The aftermarket craze exists in all Powersports. I’ll agree that these days, for all around use, it’s hard to out engineer the factory. There are cases though where improvements can be made for specific applications, like hardcore off-roading. Maybe someone needs more ground clearance and floatation for how they’re using their truck. I’m past the days of modding vehicles for performance whether it’s my snowmobile, atv or truck. I do believe though that people can make smart changes if they know what they want to improve and what they’ll be trading off in doing so.

You would have a good laugh following the snowmobile forums and the changes people make (exhaust, clutching, gearing, etc) before they have even had their new sled on the snow. They have no way of measuring any changes they’ve made, better or worse.

I am well aware off it from the motorcycle side off things. Worked in motorcycle sales for a bit too.
On the BMW S1000R and RR, the primary reason for replacing the stock exhaust is purely aesthetic they dislike how the stock cat looks under the belly. Nevermind the fact that you only gain noise when replacing the exhaust...because a tune is needed to actually benefit from the reduced back-pressure. Then they end up with a loud bike that they barely ride

I have done the modding thing on cars...and have learned my lesson I am neither smarter than the engineers from 1990s VW nor do I have the monetary resources. Thus, it is only mild mods that require no irreversible changes.

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