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Clay6GRanger

Clay6GRanger

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Is it just a coil spring or a whole strut setup? It's bringing up just a coil spring in the link.
Sorry man, that link was not correct. bilstein changed their website around I guess. Here’s what I actually bought https://cart.bilsteinus.com/shock-24-313971.html?VehicleType=Car**Truck**SUV**Van&Year=2023&Make=Ford&Model=Bronco&SubModel=Base&DriveType=&BodyType=&Engine=&SpringType=&MfrBodyCode=&BodyNumDoors=4 Door

I moved my coil springs and tophats over from the OEM strut onto the bilstein shock absorber.
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Sorry man, that link was not correct. bilstein changed their website around I guess. Here’s what I actually bought https://cart.bilsteinus.com/shock-24-313971.html?VehicleType=Car**Truck**SUV**Van&Year=2023&Make=Ford&Model=Bronco&SubModel=Base&DriveType=&BodyType=&Engine=&SpringType=&MfrBodyCode=&BodyNumDoors=4 Door

I moved my coil springs and tophats over from the OEM strut onto the bilstein shock absorber.
Okay, thanks! So the shock itself with the factory springs netted you about 2" of lift then? I may have to go that route.
 
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Clay6GRanger

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Nice truck and combo! Question. Are you using 5100 shocks only from Bronco 4 doors? Any other suspension components did you swap? Like swaybar links? What's your wheel offset? Thank you.
Yeah, I’d stick with the 4-door ones so you get the right valving for the weight of the vehicle. The 4-doors are more or less the same weight as these trucks ~4400 lbs. Wheel offset is +35.

I’ve been working on some sway bar end links that I can disconnect, partly because I needed shorter ones anyway with the lift and partly because I wanted to disconnect the sway bar for off-roading. I’ll post up some pictures and links of what I think has worked out later this evening or this week sometime.
 
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Clay6GRanger

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Okay, thanks! So the shock itself with the factory springs netted you about 2" of lift then? I may have to go that route.
Yeah, it was about 1.8” lift on the lowest circlip setting on the shock body (closest to the bottom of the shock). I think it’s perfect cuz I still have a decent amount of droop, probably 3-4”, and some added ground clearance. It also levels it out very nicely.
 

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huh, that doesn't really cost any more than the strut spacer lifts. Just ordered a set of rims so I'm committed to a lift now.
 
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Yeah, I’d stick with the 4-door ones so you get the right valving for the weight of the vehicle. The 4-doors are more or less the same weight as these trucks ~4400 lbs. Wheel offset is +35.

I’ve been working on some sway bar end links that I can disconnect, partly because I needed shorter ones anyway with the lift and partly because I wanted to disconnect the sway bar for off-roading. I’ll post up some pictures and links of what I think has worked out later this evening or this week sometime.
Were you able to connect the sway bar as is, or is it currently disconnected?
 
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Clay6GRanger

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Were you able to connect the sway bar as is, or is it currently disconnected?
You can connect it as is, however it runs into the lower control arm at full droop. Not badly, but enough that I bent and popped out one end of the end link on the driver side while off-roading a few weeks ago when that wheel went off the back of a rock a little too quickly and the suspension went to full extension very fast 😅 Because the end links attach above the sway bar to the knuckle, when you lift the truck you end up needing shorter sway bar links to keep the sway bar neutral at static ride height. I ran it without the sway bar for the couple weeks it’s taken to figure out new end links and didn’t have a problem. It’s got more body roll, but it never felt like a dangerous amount even on the highway.
 
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Clay6GRanger

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huh, that doesn't really cost any more than the strut spacer lifts. Just ordered a set of rims so I'm committed to a lift now.
That was my thought process as well haha!
 

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Yeah, it was about 1.8” lift on the lowest circlip setting on the shock body (closest to the bottom of the shock). I think it’s perfect cuz I still have a decent amount of droop, probably 3-4”, and some added ground clearance. It also levels it out very nicely.
How hard was it to swap everything to the new struts? I just ordered a set of those bilstiens for mine.
 
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Clay6GRanger

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How hard was it to swap everything to the new struts? I just ordered a set of those bilstiens for mine.
I got it done in a night. I had to fight with the bump stop to get it off, I ended up using a puller device to pop the retaining ring off the top of the strut piston that wouldn’t allow the bump stop to just slide off, but that was the only thing that really slowed me down.
 

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I got it done in a night. I had to fight with the bump stop to get it off, I ended up using a puller device to pop the retaining ring off the top of the strut piston that wouldn’t allow the bump stop to just slide off, but that was the only thing that really slowed me down.
Did you have to use a spring compressor to swap it over to new strut?
 
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Clay6GRanger

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Okay, so I get the top hat and spring off, how dl I disassemble the factory shop to get the bottom plate off?

17246871497835045470772266921567.jpg
There's a little metal ring that prevents the bump stop from just sliding off, you'll have to remove that with one of those two or three-arm pulling devices, should come off very easily with the puller. That white plastic piece is just friction fit onto the shock body, I got it off by just ramming the bottom plate into it like a slide hammer till it came off.
 

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There's a little metal ring that prevents the bump stop from just sliding off, you'll have to remove that with one of those two or three-arm pulling devices, should come off very easily with the puller. That white plastic piece is just friction fit onto the shock body, I got it off by just ramming the bottom plate into it like a slide hammer till it came off.
Got it done yesterday, installed the struts at the same setting as yours turned out well. Did you have to get an alignment?
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