Diamondback covers?

[RogueLobo]

@garagesale @jorosz0309 I was able to install my Diamondback SE this weekend, and honestly, it went surprisingly well all around. I still don't have my bulkhead weatherstripping yet, but I'll install when I get it. A few things I found.

1. You absolutely need 2 people for this job. It made it incredibly easy. One person in the bed, one person on the outside for reasons I'll mention in a bit.
2. Even though I took a picture of my rod guide brackets for DB (they requested it and are sending me new ones because these were short, allegedly) the ones already on the cover fit great. They are pretty close to the furthest "down position" but having someone apply pressure to the cover to make the gaskets compress and tighten the brackets makes an awesome seal all the way round and the job of installing the brackets a breeze. Note that none of the rod guide brackets bind their rods at all. Maybe it's because of number 3 below.
3. Rods. These all shipped short. But, are adjustable length wise with an allen wrench (I'll attach a picture). That, and they can also be turned/pivoted so the bend is at the outer most part of the panels and not in the middle (which would interfere with taller items in the bed). This is where the second person came into play again. I had someone compress the panel gaskets even more while I laid on my back in the bed, pulled the guide rods out with the allen key loosened until I had a good inch past the lip of bed and rotated where the bend of the rod was closest to the top. I did this on each rod, tightened the allen keys and I was set. To close the panels I'll press down on the panels to compress the seal and close the latch thereafter. There's no binding or rubbing, and everything has smooth operation. That, and all 4 rods have more than enough left in adjustment - see pic. Maybe this is known already, but figured it would be helpful to someone.
4. Pet-peeve: The front (or cab-most) panel has driver side spring loaded latch and a dumb safety catch. I hate it. I honestly contemplated removing it all, but thought it might void their warranty - and decided against it. Safety, I guess.
5. I also installed the UpTop Overland bars. These things ROCK. Super stout and match really well. Lots of adjustability. Do yourself a favor though and mock everything up first before installing the brackets on the DB, then attach the bars to the brackets, THEN install the brackets to the DB. The bars remind me of large C channel, and it's tough to get your fingers inside the bars to secure everything. And let me tell you, there are ~24+ lock nuts you'll have to get inside the bar so you'll get frustrated quick. Ask me how I know. Again, going this route might be beneficial with 2 people.

Next up, I'll be adding the DB inside light, tool bar and 4 more cleats. it's sleeting outside right now, otherwise I'd head outside and take some pictures. Garage pics will have to do for now.

Thank you Hofstetm! Awesome write up explaining all the tricks to get the Diamondback installed properly. Thanks for sharing for all of us waiting get the cover...

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[jorosz0309]

@garagesale @jorosz0309 I was able to install my Diamondback SE this weekend, and honestly, it went surprisingly well all around. I still don't have my bulkhead weatherstripping yet, but I'll install when I get it. A few things I found.

1. You absolutely need 2 people for this job. It made it incredibly easy. One person in the bed, one person on the outside for reasons I'll mention in a bit.
2. Even though I took a picture of my rod guide brackets for DB (they requested it and are sending me new ones because these were short, allegedly) the ones already on the cover fit great. They are pretty close to the furthest "down position" but having someone apply pressure to the cover to make the gaskets compress and tighten the brackets makes an awesome seal all the way round and the job of installing the brackets a breeze. Note that none of the rod guide brackets bind their rods at all. Maybe it's because of number 3 below.
3. Rods. These all shipped short. But, are adjustable length wise with an allen wrench (I'll attach a picture). That, and they can also be turned/pivoted so the bend is at the outer most part of the panels and not in the middle (which would interfere with taller items in the bed). This is where the second person came into play again. I had someone compress the panel gaskets even more while I laid on my back in the bed, pulled the guide rods out with the allen key loosened until I had a good inch past the lip of bed and rotated where the bend of the rod was closest to the top. I did this on each rod, tightened the allen keys and I was set. To close the panels I'll press down on the panels to compress the seal and close the latch thereafter. There's no binding or rubbing, and everything has smooth operation. That, and all 4 rods have more than enough left in adjustment - see pic. Maybe this is known already, but figured it would be helpful to someone.
4. Pet-peeve: The front (or cab-most) panel has driver side spring loaded latch and a dumb safety catch. I hate it. I honestly contemplated removing it all, but thought it might void their warranty - and decided against it. Safety, I guess.
5. I also installed the UpTop Overland bars. These things ROCK. Super stout and match really well. Lots of adjustability. Do yourself a favor though and mock everything up first before installing the brackets on the DB, then attach the bars to the brackets, THEN install the brackets to the DB. The bars remind me of large C channel, and it's tough to get your fingers inside the bars to secure everything. And let me tell you, there are ~24+ lock nuts you'll have to get inside the bar so you'll get frustrated quick. Ask me how I know. Again, going this route might be beneficial with 2 people.

Next up, I'll be adding the DB inside light, tool bar and 4 more cleats. it's sleeting outside right now, otherwise I'd head outside and take some pictures. Garage pics will have to do for now.

Yup, I had all the exact same experiences. My brackets were all of adequate length and yes the rods needed to be adjusted outward. I was home alone during my install so I loaded the top with a 100lb roll of rubber flooring and then adjusted the brackets from inside. But yes a second person definitely would have been helpful when adjusting the bracket and rods to help open/close it from the outside. I don’t necessarily mind the safety catch, but I do not like the spring loaded handle. Overall I love it. Did a lot of hunting over the weekend and it made life so much easier. Didn’t have to load the cab of the truck up so much. I do have my brother in law working on some metal to add to the bulkhead for a solid platform to make a seal. Once it’s fabricated I’ll have it LineX and then install it. I went through a touchless car wash thinking it wouldn’t be terrible with that gap. You should have SEEN how much soap was in the bed haha.

 

[theGnat]

Greetings. I just joined the forum and am excited to read and research almost all-things related to the 2024 Ranger. I took delivery of a 2024 Ranger Lariat in December (October 2024 build).

My Diamondback SE is being delivered today. Just curious, how the bulkhead weatherstrip installation is holding up for those who live in an area where the temps haven't yet reached or constantly have been at or above the recommended 50-degree F and have installed the weatherstrip. I'm in Maryland and the temps aren't yet in that 50-degree F range and won't be getting there (consistently, at least) until probably mid-March at the earliest. But I have that kid on Christmas morning mentality waiting for the cover to be delivered, and I know that I'll want to install it as soon as possible. Thanks in advance.

 

[garagesale]

I installed mine in temps at or just above the 50 degree mark and remained at that location for about a week. Since I've been at temps w/ 15 degree lows and 35 degree (farenheit) highs with no problems at all.

Just a heads up that the original bulkhead seal I received was approximately 1/4" tall. The gap between the top of my bulkhead and the bottom of the cover was about 1". DB sent me a taller seal that is working fine, but it required a subsequent shipment.

 

[Hofstetm]

Greetings. I just joined the forum and am excited to read and research almost all-things related to the 2024 Ranger. I took delivery of a 2024 Ranger Lariat in December (October 2024 build).

My Diamondback SE is being delivered today. Just curious, how the bulkhead weatherstrip installation is holding up for those who live in an area where the temps haven't yet reached or constantly have been at or above the recommended 50-degree F and have installed the weatherstrip. I'm in Maryland and the temps aren't yet in that 50-degree F range and won't be getting there (consistently, at least) until probably mid-March at the earliest. But I have that kid on Christmas morning mentality waiting for the cover to be delivered, and I know that I'll want to install it as soon as possible. Thanks in advance.

I am in Wisconsin where we also won't see warmer weather until late spring, and so far mine has held up great. I will say, I did install in a heated garage, but the truck has been subject to extreme cold weather right after with zero issues. IMO though, install the cover, and wait for the temps to rise to install the bulkhead weatherstrip. Not sure what you're planning on doing with the truck until then (because obviously you'll have a gap back there which is not noticeable unless you're really looking), but it's not a requirement before installing the cover - again, IMO. My DB didn't come with the bulkhead weatherstrip at all, so it had to be shipped thereafter. I only had help installing the cover the weekend I received it (see my post above why 2 people really helps the install), so I had to install without the strip until it arrived the following week.

 

[theGnat]

I installed mine in temps at or just above the 50 degree mark and remained at that location for about a week. Since I've been at temps w/ 15 degree lows and 35 degree (farenheit) highs with no problems at all.

Just a heads up that the original bulkhead seal I received was approximately 1/4" tall. The gap between the top of my bulkhead and the bottom of the cover was about 1". DB sent me a taller seal that is working fine, but it required a subsequent shipment.

Thank you for the reply. Hopefully, I receive the proper size bulkhead weatherstrip seal. I'm thinking that it is probably more important to have the temperature consistently at or over 50-deg as the adhesive cures than at the time of installation. I was planning to use a heat gun to warm up the bulkhead as I applied the weatherstrip. It's the curing temp that is problematic since I don't have a heated garage that can keep it at the minimal adhesive curing temp and my vehicle will be sitting out in the driveway.

 

[theGnat]

I am in Wisconsin where we also won't see warmer weather until late spring, and so far mine has held up great. I will say, I did install in a heated garage, but the truck has been subject to extreme cold weather right after with zero issues. IMO though, install the cover, and wait for the temps to rise to install the bulkhead weatherstrip. Not sure what you're planning on doing with the truck until then (because obviously you'll have a gap back there which is not noticeable unless you're really looking), but it's not a requirement before installing the cover - again, IMO. My DB didn't come with the bulkhead weatherstrip at all, so it had to be shipped thereafter. I only had help installing the cover the weekend I received it (see my post above why 2 people really helps the install), so I had to install without the strip until it arrived the following week.

Thanks for the reply and insight. I will probably go ahead and install the cover as soon as possible. We're forecasted to get close or even into the 50's for day time highs in the next couple of days although the nighttime temps will dip into the 30's. Plus, I don't want to hear the complaining from the wife about a big box taking up space in the garage and making it harder (for her) to get in-and-out of her garage-kept vehicle.

The primary reason that I went with the DB SE is for the security aspect. I jumped from a car to the Ranger where the car trunk allowed me to store/place items out of sight from curious and criminal-minded eyes. I lost that with the Ranger but still want the security and peace of mind that a trunk gave me. The DB SE checks that box for me. So with that in mind, I'll probably apply the weatherstrip so as to remove or minimize any areas that could compromise the whole security thing for me. If the weatherstrip fails, I will just have to get another set from DB when the temps get warmer.

This will be a one person install since I won't have any help around. Hopefully, I can handle lifting and attaching the cab and tail panels to the center panel. What I plan to do is place about 150-lbs of weight on the cab and tail panels, respectively to compress and apply pressure to the gaskets as I work on adjusting the locking rods and to get a better seal.

 

[theGnat]

My DB SE cover arrived at 3:24pm ET yesterday, and I finished installing it at around 6:30pm. It went surprisingly well, especially since I also temporarily installed a Bedrug bed liner. I'll permanently affix the bedliner when the temps are warmer. For me, the most challenging step was getting the shims wedged underneath the bed rail cap. It was a tight fit getting them in there.

Overall, I am impressed with its looks and build quality albeit it's only been less than 24 hours. However, I'm confident that if anyone wants to get access to the truck bed, they are going to have to work for it.

Thanks again for all the advice and help. I'm going to try to install my last add-on later today...door sills. Then I have to cool off with the add-ons and try to resist that impulsive urge to do more.

 

[brandon8768]

Hello!

I just installed a Diamondback SE on my 2024 Ranger Raptor. Was not difficult however I am concerned regarding the clamps they provided. I found the bolts to be a little to short, so it needed some "persuasion"..

Curious to see if someone who previously installed a SE had a similar issue and wouldn't mind providing an image of it for my peace of mind.

Thank you!

 

[garagesale]

Are you referring to the clamps that hold the center section of the cover? Or the clamps that that are associated with the front/rear sections of the cover? If the latter, I had to request slightly longer ones from DB. Also, it helps to either weight the cover, or have someone compress it, during install. After the weather sripping compresses for a day or two things aren't so tight. Sorry, I don't have a photo handy.

 

[brandon8768]

Are you referring to the clamps that hold the center section of the cover? Or the clamps that that are associated with the front/rear sections of the cover? If the latter, I had to request slightly longer ones from DB. Also, it helps to either weight the cover, or have someone compress it, during install. After the weather sripping compresses for a day or two things aren't so tight. Sorry, I don't have a photo handy.

This is the 4x center section clamps. I had it compressed with a good amount of weight and was able to install but it's about halfway threaded so not ideal. I believe they are 5" bolts so if they were about a half inch to full longer it would be much better. Even with compression over time it'll still be pretty tight, Ill reach out. Thank you for the insight, glad I was not crazy.

 

[theGnat]

Per the installation instructions, DB specifically states to be careful not to overtighten the clamps. Step 5:
"While tightening clamps, be aware of possible bed rail cap deformation. Overtightening clamps will damage rail caps and cause leaking."

So perhaps, the length of the bolts are by design. I had a torque wrench and tightened the bolts to the stated 4-5 ft-lbs. which is not that much force. I also did not use any weight over the center panel as I attached/installed the clamps. I only used additional weight on the tail and cab panels when adjusting/setting the locking rods.

It's been 9 days since I installed my cover with inclement weather during that time period, and so far (knocking on wood), I've had no issues.

 

[brandon8768]

Per the installation instructions, DB specifically states to be careful not to overtighten the clamps. Step 5:
"While tightening clamps, be aware of possible bed rail cap deformation. Overtightening clamps will damage rail caps and cause leaking."

So perhaps, the length of the bolts are by design. I had a torque wrench and tightened the bolts to the stated 4-5 ft-lbs. which is not that much force. I also did not use any weight over the center panel as I attached/installed the clamps. I only used additional weight on the tail and cab panels when adjusting/setting the locking rods.

It's been 9 days since I installed my cover with inclement weather during that time period, and so far (knocking on wood), I've had no issues.

Appreciate the insight! Just to clarify and provide closure, they gave me g-200 clamps with my SE which as you can see was my cause of alarm. Definitely would not work/cause damage. I reached out to Diamondback and they immediately sent me g-99 one notch clamps which look to be correct.

 

[MichBadger]

For those of you with Diamondbacks, how's the water intrusion? I'm looking to get to 99.5% dry, and realize it's going to take some other work to get there.

 

[jorosz0309]

For those of you with Diamondbacks, how's the water intrusion? I'm looking to get to 99.5% dry, and realize it's going to take some other work to get there.

I get no water from the top where the diamondback is located. I get some water from the back at the tailgate because I haven't done any sealing there. And that is only when I go through a touchless car wash with high power jets. I haven't sealed every little hole in the bed and I don't see any water coming through any of them. I'd say I'm 95% dry... but with a little effort, you can get there. The diamondback certainly does it's own job perfectly. No water from the cover area.

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