Audio Upgrade Review! JL Audio Stealthbox + Sound Good Stereo Kicker LOC + AudioControl 1.300 Amp

[Snkrjeff020]

Main reason for me was that getting the KEYLOC from SGS, it came with the adapters and cables needed to just plug it into the existing system. Also had been trained on the B&O system so no setup other than plugging it in.

How are you liking the system so far? The level of added bass is exactly what I was looking for. Far superior than the stock sub but not obnoxiously shaking and rattling everything.

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[nate.co]

How are you liking the system so far? The level of added bass is exactly what I was looking for. Far superior than the stock sub but not obnoxiously shaking and rattling everything.

Yeah I am super happy with the setup, always amazing to hear a whole other side to some tracks because the bass just didn't show up before. Huge improvement over stock. Really glad you pointed out the SGS adapter setup, I've had no issues at all with the whole system.

 

[jorosz0309]

Main reason for me was that getting the KEYLOC from SGS, it came with the adapters and cables needed to just plug it into the existing system. It also had been trained on the B&O system so no setup other than plugging it in (and in my case turning down the output gain slightly).

I guess what I'm saying is you can buy the $30 adaptor from them (without the keyloc), which allows you to connect an aftermarket amp directly into the factory amp. Basically, same thing you did, without the keyloc. Kicker sells amps that have the keyloc (Key 500.1) included, so it's one less thing to mount back there, and a couple hundred $$ cheaper. But I'm no expert at this, so maybe there's something I'm missing here.

 

[nate.co]

Yeah I get it -- but when you hook up the KEYLOC you are supposed to play some specific audio files through the system while the KEYLOC is in "training" mode so it will setup its equalizer and processor based on what it's supposed to hear compared to what it actually hears. There's a whole process to get it setup and you're trading that money for doing that setup.

 

[jorosz0309]

Yeah I get it -- but when you hook up the KEYLOC you are supposed to play some specific audio files through the system while the KEYLOC is in "training" mode so it will setup its equalizer and processor based on what it's supposed to hear compared to what it actually hears. There's a whole process to get it setup and you're trading that money for doing that setup.

You actually get that with the Key inside the amp too. What you're describing - that's the DSP. The keyloc from SGS should really only be needed if you have an existing amp without LOC/DSP. For others who are putting in a more powerful system, maybe the Key500.1 isn't powerful enough, but at 300w into 2 ohms and 500w into 1 ohm, it's powerful enough for the 10" JL and Rockford Fosgate shallow mount subs. For those people out there without existing gear, they can combine their amp and LOC and have one less thing to mount. But the $30 harness from SGS is awesome - simplifies everything into plug and play. Again, I'm definitely more of a home theater guy, so maybe I'm missing a different reason to use the keyloc. But sure does seem like it's an easy way to cut out $230+ and have one less thing to mount / wire.

 

[moproblems]

You actually get that with the Key inside the amp too. What you're describing - that's the DSP. The keyloc from SGS should really only be needed if you have an existing amp without LOC/DSP. For others who are putting in a more powerful system, maybe the Key500.1 isn't powerful enough, but at 300w into 2 ohms and 500w into 1 ohm, it's powerful enough for the 10" JL and Rockford Fosgate shallow mount subs. For those people out there without existing gear, they can combine their amp and LOC and have one less thing to mount. But the $30 harness from SGS is awesome - simplifies everything into plug and play. Again, I'm definitely more of a home theater guy, so maybe I'm missing a different reason to use the keyloc. But sure does seem like it's an easy way to cut out $230+ and have one less thing to mount / wire.

This is exactly correct. When I spoke to SGS about going the way I did, they agreed that there was no issue doing it my way, and the Key system in the Key500.1 is exactly the same as the KeyLOC. The reason that they lock out the adjustment on the KeyLOC is due to them being a full range correction instead of a low range correction they are more finicky to get just right.

People don't exactly understand what they are doing with this stuff. Both systems split the front mid-range signals and feed them to the amp/LOC to correct and create a full range signal. One is just an amp AND LOC, and for most setups people are putting in these trucks, is all that is required. It's small, tidy, cheap and easy setup that just needs an 8 gauge power wire and I honestly just velcro'd it to the rear wall behind the seat.

Any LOC can't fix signals that aren't there, however. And I have found that the stock amp tuning doesn't give enough to bring back below about 40hz through those front range drivers. I plan on going to a moBridge at some point in the future so I can get a full range. I will keep the key500.1 amp however, as it has plenty power to get my stealthbox to distortion.

 

[jorosz0309]

This is exactly correct. When I spoke to SGS about going the way I did, they agreed that there was no issue doing it my way, and the Key system in the Key500.1 is exactly the same as the KeyLOC. The reason that they lock out the adjustment on the KeyLOC is due to them being a full range correction instead of a low range correction they are more finicky to get just right.

People don't exactly understand what they are doing with this stuff. Both systems split the front mid-range signals and feed them to the amp/LOC to correct and create a full range signal. One is just an amp AND LOC, and for most setups people are putting in these trucks, is all that is required. It's small, tidy, cheap and easy setup that just needs an 8 gauge power wire and I honestly just velcro'd it to the rear wall behind the seat.

Any LOC can't fix signals that aren't there, however. And I have found that the stock amp tuning doesn't give enough to bring back below about 40hz through those front range drivers. I plan on going to a moBridge at some point in the future so I can get a full range. I will keep the key500.1 amp however, as it has plenty power to get my stealthbox to distortion.

Interesting! I was guessing that the the signal coming from the factory amp would be speaker level output (since it's going to the factory "sub") and that a LOC (whether in an amp or separate) would be needed to convert to a pre-amp signal, but I didn't realize it wouldn't be a full range signal. Why would they not have a full range signal feeding the existing factory sub? Have you done any sound measurements to show we aren't getting a frequency response below 40hz? That would be a little disappointing. It would be a shame to miss the 20-40hz band. That being said, the stealthbox volume (.37 I think) is a bit low for the JL 10TW3 I was planning on putting in. That sub's frequency response gets down to 24hz in a larger .5 sealed box and has an F3 of 40hz.... so I'm not sure that I could have expected anything in the 20-30hz range anyway. I actually debated getting out the fiberglass and making my own box that uses some of the extra volume the stealthbox is missing. I'm not familiar with MoBridge. I'll check it out.

 

[moproblems]

Interesting! I was guessing that the the signal coming from the factory amp would be speaker level output (since it's going to the factory "sub") and that a LOC (whether in an amp or separate) would be needed to convert to a pre-amp signal, but I didn't realize it wouldn't be a full range signal. Why would they not have a full range signal feeding the existing factory sub? Have you done any sound measurements to show we aren't getting a frequency response below 40hz? That would be a little disappointing. It would be a shame to miss the 20-40hz band. That being said, the stealthbox volume (.37 I think) is a bit low for the JL 10TW3 I was planning on putting in. That sub's frequency response gets down to 24hz in a larger .5 sealed box and has an F3 of 40hz.... so I'm not sure that I could have expected anything in the 20-30hz range anyway. I actually debated getting out the fiberglass and making my own box that uses some of the extra volume the stealthbox is missing. I'm not familiar with MoBridge. I'll check it out.

The full ranges have a low pass filter that fully trails off by 40hz or so. You don't notice it much, but on some stuff that goes really low it can be disappointing where the response just stops. However these small 10's don't have that much response down low anyways. Outside of that, it works great. The TW1 really has enough power to rattle the hell out of every piece of trim in the truck. Treatment is a must, and consider bolting the box to the floor. TW3 is going to be much tighter and better all around, but I don't know if you could actually get enough volume out of that space to make it work effectively. Mine is currently tuned at -10db.

Mobridge would help as you could do your own correction, but I'd recommend replacing the doors and doing a treatment at the same time. I'd like to get there, but not quite yet.

Do understand you aren't pulling the signal from the subwoofer output on the factory amp, it's coming from the front doors. The factory sub output rolls off above about 18 or so to protect the speaker, if it didn't we could use that signal instead. Also, do not unplug the factory subwoofer if you like how the factory chimes / turn signals come out of the amplified speaker. It will error out the amp and those will instead be played by the backup speaker in the cluster.

 

[jorosz0309]

The full ranges have a low pass filter that fully trails off by 40hz or so. You don't notice it much, but on some stuff that goes really low it can be disappointing where the response just stops. However these small 10's don't have that much response down low anyways. Outside of that, it works great. The TW1 really has enough power to rattle the hell out of every piece of trim in the truck. Treatment is a must, and consider bolting the box to the floor. TW3 is going to be much tighter and better all around, but I don't know if you could actually get enough volume out of that space to make it work effectively. Mine is currently tuned at -10db.

Mobridge would help as you could do your own correction, but I'd recommend replacing the doors and doing a treatment at the same time. I'd like to get there, but not quite yet.

Do understand you aren't pulling the signal from the subwoofer output on the factory amp, it's coming from the front doors. The factory sub output rolls off above about 18 or so to protect the speaker, if it didn't we could use that signal instead. Also, do not unplug the factory subwoofer if you like how the factory chimes / turn signals come out of the amplified speaker. It will error out the amp and those will instead be played by the backup speaker in the cluster.

thanks for all the tips, truly appreciated. Looks like my Aussie sub box will be arriving in the coming days. I’ve got the Kicker Key500.1, JL 10TW1, sound deadening mats, and bass knob on standby for the install. I also have the Sounds Good Stereo adapter. Since I have the Key amp, I opted for the “Factory Connection Harness to add a new Subwoofer Amplifier while retaining factory B&O”. But I haven’t seen any close up pics of the stock amp or how this white harness makes the connection. This is the only unknown for me on the install. Any insight? As you mentioned I’d prefer to keep the stock sub in place.

 

[moproblems]

thanks for all the tips, truly appreciated. Looks like my Aussie sub box will be arriving in the coming days. I’ve got the Kicker Key500.1, JL 10TW1, sound deadening mats, and bass knob on standby for the install. I also have the Sounds Good Stereo adapter. Since I have the Key amp, I opted for the “Factory Connection Harness to add a new Subwoofer Amplifier while retaining factory B&O”. But I haven’t seen any close up pics of the stock amp or how this white harness makes the connection. This is the only unknown for me on the install. Any insight? As you mentioned I’d prefer to keep the stock sub in place.

Unfortunately, you bought the wrong jumper harness. You need this : https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...67S_58zR7VJj9Q.PQdJue#judgeme_product_reviews

 

[jorosz0309]

Unfortunately, you bought the wrong jumper harness. You need this : https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/ford-b-o-key500-harnesses?utm_source=Product Review / Cross Sell&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Copy of Product Review / Cross Sell: Email 1 (TQJ4EP)&_kx=mxnvFb2fA20fgYVak3BsH1lWNbAVu67S_58zR7VJj9Q.PQdJue#judgeme_product_reviews

What the heck! THANK YOU! How did you find that? I looked through all the harnesses and never saw that. Also didn't expect a specific harness to that amp... just expected either bare wire to solder or RCA connection. Don't get me wrong, I'm thankful there are harnesses to buy, but that website is really confusing. Did you get this jumper harness? Does it allow the factory sub to stay in place? I wish the website had a photo of it.

 

[jorosz0309]

Unfortunately, you bought the wrong jumper harness. You need this : https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/ford-b-o-key500-harnesses?utm_source=Product Review / Cross Sell&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Copy of Product Review / Cross Sell: Email 1 (TQJ4EP)&_kx=mxnvFb2fA20fgYVak3BsH1lWNbAVu67S_58zR7VJj9Q.PQdJue#judgeme_product_reviews

Nevermind - I think I get it now. this is not the correct jumper for the full range signal to the doors. I should have called them before I bought the first harness. Seemed straightforward at the time, but I was wrong haha. I'm glad I asked the question before I got into the install and found out the hard way.

 

[hand-filer]

[COLOR=var(--darkreader-text-cbcbcb, #c7c2bb)]Also, do not unplug the factory subwoofer if you like how the factory chimes / turn signals come out of the amplified speaker. It will error out the amp and those will instead be played by the backup speaker in the cluster.[/COLOR]

I've had the subwoofer disconnected for several months without any adverse effects. The chimes and signal indicator sound exactly the same with no error messages.
Why would you want to produce chimes with a low frequency driver? The only difference I hear is a lack of distortion from the sub.
If anyone else has disconnected their sub and had issues doing so, feel free to chime in.

 

[moproblems]

I've had the subwoofer disconnected for several months without any adverse effects. The chimes and signal indicator sound exactly the same with no error messages.
Why would you want to produce chimes with a low frequency driver? The only difference I hear is a lack of distortion from the sub.
If anyone else has disconnected their sub and had issues doing so, feel free to chime in.

You are misunderstanding. Normally chimes, turn signals, and other alert sounds the truck makes will come through the front doors and center channel. When there is an error detected these chimes are played through the backup speaker in the gauge cluster. Disconnecting the subwoofer causes this issue.

I don't like my truck to sound like an early 2010's f150 when I open the door or start it up. Consider me strange.

 

[hand-filer]

You are misunderstanding. Normally chimes, turn signals, and other alert sounds the truck makes will come through the front doors and center channel. When there is an error detected these chimes are played through the backup speaker in the gauge cluster. Disconnecting the subwoofer causes this issue.

I don't like my truck to sound like an early 2010's f150 when I open the door or start it up. Consider me strange.

My system has yet to produce this error that you speak of. That's why I asked for others to respond. I'm not saying I don't believe you. I'm speaking from my experience which contradicts what you're saying.

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