Mega audio upgrade -- sound deadening, speakers, stealthbox sub, GMRS radio

[Tunisian]

Shut up and take my money !!

really impressed ! Bravo

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[Mgrmax]

Antenna placement is not the best.

Not saying you are wrong, but from what I have read, the higher the better? What’s not good about his placement?

 

[maus92]

Not saying you are wrong, but from what I have read, the higher the better? What’s not good about his placement?

The antenna should be centered in the roof to provide the optimum ground plane. You could compromise a bit and center it laterally, and move it forward by ~6". This will give better performance and less directionality than your current mounting position.

 

[Hofstetm]

Yeah makes sense about the grille. I dented mine by leaning on it but was able to pull the dent out with a little picking tool. Hopefully the spacing is fine, I think the bottom of the seat is soft. I guess no jumping on that seat

I'm getting a little weirded out by the space constraint and needing to modify that seat latch. Should be OK but just don't like it -- I am going to order that AudioControl ACM 1.300 amp and re-do the mounting next weekend. I think that will work better with the space constraints.

That's what I am currently using! Curious your thoughts when you get it installed vs the JL.

 

[moproblems]

I'm surprised you don't have a mobridge, I find the stock amp is what is really lacking over the stock door speakers. I am planning to do both here in the future with focal components as well.

 

[KarateMonkey]

The antenna should be centered in the roof to provide the optimum ground plane. You could compromise a bit and center it laterally, and move it forward by ~6". This will give better performance and less directionality than your current mounting position.

Like this?

 

[maus92]

Like this?

Exactly (not.)

 

[nate.co]

I did go back and replace the amp with an AudioControl ACM 1.300. Definitely the right amp to use especially given the space. Updated the first post to have some pics at the end but that amp is tiny compared the the JL

This let me move the GMRS radio down a couple inches and I removed the spacers on the rear seat latch. Back seat closes just fine now like before.

 

[Hofstetm]

I did go back and replace the amp with an AudioControl ACM 1.300. Definitely the right amp to use especially given the space. Updated the first post to have some pics at the end but that amp is tiny compared the the JL

This let me move the GMRS radio down a couple inches and I removed the spacers on the rear seat latch. Back seat closes just fine now like before.

Any power or sound difference between amps? I believe they have the same RMS wattage output for the sub, I believe. Curious what settings you'll use on the amp too. It's a nice compact package!

 

[nate.co]

Any power or sound difference between amps? I believe they have the same RMS wattage output for the sub, I believe. Curious what settings you'll use on the amp too. It's a nice compact package!

Thanks! It does seem like the ACM is a little more powerful (listed as 300 watts vs 250 but I don't know what they are actually putting out). I have all the dials on the amp turned down as far as possible, the crossover set at 80Hz and the remote "off" (which uses the actual remote wire vs trying to detect something on the audio signal). In the Ranger's audio tone settings I have the bass turned down to three positions from the left. Basically turned things down as much as possible as it's a LOT of bass coming out of that sub.

I mean it sounds amazing but I can't imagine turning things up. I usually listen at volume 10-12, and for max maybe 16-18. I feel like the with the JD250, I could turn it up a little louder before going deaf, but not by much.

The KEYLOC from Sounds Good Stereo comes with the adapter cables, etc, but they also cover up the two dials on the KEYLOC. From the KEYLOC manual pdf, there is an input and output gain, I may take the stickers off and adjust the output gain down a little.

 

[moproblems]

Thanks! It does seem like the ACM is a little more powerful (listed as 300 watts vs 250 but I don't know what they are actually putting out). I have all the dials on the amp turned down as far as possible, the crossover set at 80Hz and the remote "off" (which uses the actual remote wire vs trying to detect something on the audio signal). In the Ranger's audio tone settings I have the bass turned down to three positions from the left. Basically turned things down as much as possible as it's a LOT of bass coming out of that sub.

I mean it sounds amazing but I can't imagine turning things up. I usually listen at volume 10-12, and for max maybe 16-18. I feel like the with the JD250, I could turn it up a little louder before going deaf, but not by much.

The KEYLOC from Sounds Good Stereo comes with the adapter cables, etc, but they also cover up the two dials on the KEYLOC. From the KEYLOC manual pdf, there is an input and output gain, I may take the stickers off and adjust the output gain down a little.

Could also just use a Key500.1. Has KeyLOC built in, sounds good makes a harness for it, saves like 200 bucks.

 

[nate.co]

I updated the main post -- replaced the center channel speaker on the dash with a Kicker KSC350. Thanks to @GLW for the recommendation and wire polarity.

On the wiring from the plug, the solid white wire is positive and the multi-color wire is ground. I just dismantled the stock speaker to re-use the plug. It's held to the stock speaker with a rivet that pulls through the plastic bracket. You could also just clip the existing cable and wire it in.

The speaker fits best with the contacts towards the front of the vehicle, this let the speaker sit down in the cavity.

I took the cover stickers off the KEYLOC and adjusted the OUTPUT gain down about 50% from where it was. I didn't adjust the INPUT gain, and I covered these up with wiring harness tape to keep dust out.

OUTPUT gain is now at about 8 o'clock.

And on the ACM 1.300, after adjusting the KEYLOC output gain, I was able to adjust the gain and thresholds. All of them are set at about 10 o'clock.

With these settings, I was able to re-adjust the settings in the truck. I've now got Treble at +2, Mids at +3 and Bass at -1. Sounds fantastic and doesn't bottom out or get muddy.

Done with car audio for a while, LOL.

 

[Hofstetm]

I updated the main post -- replaced the center channel speaker on the dash with a Kicker KSC350. Thanks to @GLW for the recommendation and wire polarity.

On the wiring from the plug, the solid white wire is positive and the multi-color wire is ground. I just dismantled the stock speaker to re-use the plug. It's held to the stock speaker with a rivet that pulls through the plastic bracket. You could also just clip the existing cable and wire it in.

The speaker fits best with the contacts towards the front of the vehicle, this let the speaker sit down in the cavity.

I took the cover stickers off the KEYLOC and adjusted the OUTPUT gain down about 50% from where it was. I didn't adjust the INPUT gain, and I covered these up with wiring harness tape to keep dust out.

OUTPUT gain is now at about 8 o'clock.

And on the ACM 1.300, after adjusting the KEYLOC output gain, I was able to adjust the gain and thresholds. All of them are set at about 10 o'clock.

With these settings, I was able to re-adjust the settings in the truck. I've now got Treble at +2, Mids at +3 and Bass at -1. Sounds fantastic and doesn't bottom out or get muddy.

Done with car audio for a while, LOL.

I’ll be replicating this exactly! Thanks for all the work on this. “Muddy” is the exact term I’d use to explain how it sounds for me too. Thanks again!

 

[Hofstetm]

I updated the main post -- replaced the center channel speaker on the dash with a Kicker KSC350. Thanks to @GLW for the recommendation and wire polarity.

On the wiring from the plug, the solid white wire is positive and the multi-color wire is ground. I just dismantled the stock speaker to re-use the plug. It's held to the stock speaker with a rivet that pulls through the plastic bracket. You could also just clip the existing cable and wire it in.

The speaker fits best with the contacts towards the front of the vehicle, this let the speaker sit down in the cavity.

I took the cover stickers off the KEYLOC and adjusted the OUTPUT gain down about 50% from where it was. I didn't adjust the INPUT gain, and I covered these up with wiring harness tape to keep dust out.

OUTPUT gain is now at about 8 o'clock.

And on the ACM 1.300, after adjusting the KEYLOC output gain, I was able to adjust the gain and thresholds. All of them are set at about 10 o'clock.

With these settings, I was able to re-adjust the settings in the truck. I've now got Treble at +2, Mids at +3 and Bass at -1. Sounds fantastic and doesn't bottom out or get muddy.

Done with car audio for a while, LOL.

Forgot to ask: in the truck audio settings are you using surround or stereo, and fade - is yours dead center or moved?

 

[nate.co]

Forgot to ask: in the truck audio settings are you using surround or stereo, and fade - is yours dead center or moved?

I've got it dead center for fading. Whatever "reset" gets you.

I've gone back and forth with stereo vs surround. I feel like surround uses the center channel a little more? I have it on surround right now but have had it on both.

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