The best $100 I’ve spent on my Ranger Raptor = auto start stop eliminator disabler

[jeffers]

My meat nuggets for fingers could not get the connector off. After some blood was shed, wound up removing the Gateway Module to get access.

Yeah, I'm no fan of the electrical plugs in cars.

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[Rabbit9]

I'm curious when your truck was built? My XLT was built in October and I took delivery in November. I am having mucho issues getting the eliminator installed. I can't get the right angle connector from the module to release. Did you have a tab on the back of your connector? Mine doesn't seem to have the release tab.

I have a 2024 Ranger Raptor that I bought this past June.
It has a tab, but unless you have really small hands, good luck manipulating it!
I have fairly large hands and couldn’t even come close. I even got my boroscope, so I could look at the back of the connector. I knew exactly what I was trying to do, but my fingers were going numb trying to get my hand back there. It literally took my wife ten seconds to pull out the connector, and it took me about that long (after cussing under my breath and returning her “shit-eating grin”), to finish hooking it up and putting everything back together.

 

[Rabbit9]

I file this under the heading of "Let Sleeping Dogs Lie". Nothing good becomes of asking hypothetical questions to govt bureaucrats of things that are ill defined as they rarely will find such things to the positive.

I would wholeheartedly agree. That being said, the start/stop feature, as well as other makers “cylinder deactivation“ systems were all developed as a way to conserve fuel, and are not a part of the vehicle’s emissions system. Just like the button the manufacturer gives you, you can turn it off, or on, whenever you want. I just choose to keep mine in the off position.

 

[DIYPSCM]

Years ago.... 30 to be exact.... I had a '95 Dodge Dakota 4x4 truck. AWESOME truck! Until someone T-boned it at an intersection. RIP.

One thing I HATED about that truck was it had electronically actuated OD that defaulted to ON. Every time I got in the truck I had to push the off button. Sound familiar?

Certainly things were simpler then, probably one wire to be reversed whereas now it's probably a CAN-BUS signal but the principal is probably the same.... one signal needs to be reversed... one positive needs to be negative, or one negative needs to be positive, by default.

Do a Google on logic gates. AND NAND, IF, THEN, ELSE,OR, NOR, XOR, on & on. These simple single purpose 99 cent chips control circuit flow. I used an XOR (ExclusiveOR) gate (through a SS relay, these are 3-5vdc chips) to make my default state to be off, not on. Worked amazingly well, probably a form of which is in these new $100 devices.

Anyone have the logic states/voltages for that switch?

 

[RB205]

I don’t doubt that the feature might save a little gas, but I don’t know that is a fair trade for the extra wear on the engine and turbos. When the engine shuts down, you lose coolant flow, as well as oil flow. For the engine, it’s the additional “cold starts”, where with the turbos, , it’s loss of oil/coolant flow and an immediate spike in temperature. Those are my reasons for always disabling that feature, and with the bypass switch, I don’t even have to worry about it.

I'm not sure if this is your first turbo car or not but just about every turbo car for the last 30 years has some passive oil and coolant flow through the turbos. Like literally as the oil and coolant cools off, it's forced to continue flowing through the turbos to keep everything healthy. This prevents big spikes in temperature like you're describing.

These are dumb simple systems that prevent us from having to run turbo timers like on 80s and 90s turbo cars, that actually kept a locked empty car idling for a few minutes after driving in order to let the oil and coolant flow and cool the turbos down.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

I have one installed, hated pressing the button each startup. I also did their flash module to enable Bambi mode; high beams & fogs at the same time. IMO, money well spent.

Not to be a Debbie Downer- but.. you can do that in Forscan. Lights, at least.

 

[joordan]

I actually found the best and cheapest...noticed by pure coincidence that the start/stop function is engaged only when the brake is pressed pretty hardly...if you touch it gently, it does not engage, but the car remains stopped

 

[SubaruRaptor]

Get one from auto stop eliminator. Com. 4D ripped off their design and has it built cheap in China

lolwut

 

[Jamzm]

You might think this is funny, but the one thing that I’ve always hated about my RR (and the previous 2019 Ford Ranger Lariat FX4 Sport) was the auto start/stop switch. I never use this feature, and have to remember to disable it every time I start the truck. I just picked up a bypass switch from 4dtech, and it works exactly as advertised.

https://www.4dtech.com/ranger-24-25-start-stop-eliminator/

The installation is super easy, as long as you don’t have size XXL hands, and if you do, you can solicit help removing the connection. My wife took about 10 seconds to remove it; I won’t tell you how long I had been trying or what that assistance is going to cost me..

Anyway, I’ll never have to worry about disabling the start/stop switch again.

Hi there. Isn't there a way to disable that switch with a software adjustment?

 

[AugPal]

lolwut

He's talking about these:

 

[SubaruRaptor]

He's talking about these:

Interesting, was more so his comment that he thinks whatever this is isnt also made overseas where the vast majority of circuit board printers are in general.

 

[Rabbit9]

He's talking about these:

I’d be more concerned about the one-star reviews stating that the plugs don’t match the 2024 model, the fact that it doesn’t have any posted instructions, and that the picture shows an additional (red) wire, that I assume has to be run somewhere else. I’m a big proponent of “you get what you pay for”. The part I purchased from 4D.tech was plug-and-play, had great instructions (printed and video), and works flawlessly. That’s something that I’m willing to pay for, especially when I’m connecting it to my new $60k truck.

 

[joordan]

He's talking about these:

this is not 4Dtech...this requires plugging onto the button and wire to fuse box.

 

[DIYPSCM]

this is not 4Dtech...this requires plugging onto the button and wire to fuse box.

Sounds very like like my 99 cent IC chip solution, that's encouraging.

 

[raf1919]

I have one from Aliexpress for $25 shipped, works great.

can you drop a link? I'm only seeing the ones that connect to button.

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