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Started my door insulation project today!

fordgt

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Started with the rear driver side door. I am using the method posted on YouTube by flaberdoopin. He has a lot of good info on his channel.
Getting the panel off was pretty straightforward and I did one layer of 120 mil sound/heat insulation and covered that with 150 mil sound deadener.
I started early before the sun was on my work area, got it all covered except for a 3”x3” area up by the door handle. I reached up there and the metal was almost too hot to touch. Got my laser thermometer out and there was a 15 degree difference between the bare metal and the 2 layers I had installed.
He has a couple videos relating to insulation, I am doing the doors, not sure if I’ll have the nerve to pull the headliner to do the roof.
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VehicleNanny

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I did the same about a month ago. Road noise is reduced, but the greater impact was from the sound when closing the doors. That 4"x6" patch Ford puts on the door doesn't quite cut it. Adding the sound deadening gives a more solid thunk to door closings.
 

MeBEEF

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I'm gonna do it too... eventually but I'm reading the work.
 

SolarWinds

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I've had the material sitting in my garage for about a month. The hardest part is garnering the motivation to actually do it
 

MeBEEF

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Do you have the part numbers for all of the clips that could break? I need to watch flaberdopin's video again to see if he listed them.

Thanks
 

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fordgt

fordgt

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Do you have the part numbers for all of the clips that could break? I need to watch flaberdopin's video again to see if he listed them.

Thanks
Did one door and did not break any.
 

VehicleNanny

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Did one door and did not break any.
Same for me. Plus, only one of the metal clips on the trim panel around the door handle fell into the door. Luckily, it was as I took it off, so I was able to retrive it and keep it handy for reinstallation.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I did write an article on my Ranger Sound Deadening mod. I suggest watching flaberdopin's video to see how the door panels come off first.
 

KayaPayaPigDog

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I did the same about a month ago. Road noise is reduced, but the greater impact was from the sound when closing the doors. That 4"x6" patch Ford puts on the door doesn't quite cut it. Adding the sound deadening gives a more solid thunk to door closings.
haha, that small thin piece ford put in there made me laugh when i did my doors. and you are right, the noise when closing is super satisfying
 

MeBEEF

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haha, that small thin piece ford put in there made me laugh when i did my doors. and you are right, the noise when closing is super satisfying
There is also some people who put extra rubber door trim, I think I saw a kit for it. I will probably also do this.
 

KayaPayaPigDog

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Same for me. Plus, only one of the metal clips on the trim panel around the door handle fell into the door. Luckily, it was as I took it off, so I was able to retrive it and keep it handy for reinstallation.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I did write an article on my Ranger Sound Deadening mod. I suggest watching flaberdopin's video to see how the door panels come off first.
Your article is freaking awesome! I wish i had seen this before i did mine... thanks for the info... i like the chart at the end talking about material required as well! I'm going to be pulling the seats and carpet out next month to do the entire floor pan and firewall! should be interesting!
 

pablo94sc

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Eek. You only need one layer of CLD deadening. Then you install the insulation layer. The CLD adds mass and being sandwiched between the panel and aluminum skin allows the butyl layer to convert vibrations into heat. A second layer provides very little additional gain, as the vibrations should have already been dampened.

A closed-cell foam layer is meant to decouple the CLD or bare metal from trim pieces or additional sound absorbing/blocking layers (e.g. mass load vinyl). It will provide very little insulation (R-0.5 maybe) and very high frequency sound absorption, but that's not its primary purpose.

I'm not saying your stuff isn't going to work (it will), but you spent a bunch of extra money and time doing it that way. The most common way is 2-layer on outer panels, and 3-layer on surfaces that will be touching things that can rattle such as door cards, trim panels, and between the speakers and door.

PS: right now the standard NVX 90mil CLD tiles seem to be the best bang for the buck in terms of performance and coverage per dollar. I haven't read enough about their triple layer to give a recommendation on it.
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