Can oil be changed with the truck on the ground?

[BruceB]

I just purchased a 2025 Ranger Lariat with a 2.7L V6. I'm at 300 miles and plan to do the first oil and filter change at 1000 miles. After that I plan to change oil and filter every 5000 miles. A couple of questions:

1. Can I change the oil without having to raise the truck? I have ramps but if I can do it without them, I would like to.
2. Does the yellow drain plug really need to be changed at every oil change?
3. Where best to buy replacement drain plugs and what can I expect to pay?

Thanks for any advice.

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[superj]

i bet you could easily change it without the ramps because of how tall these trucks are.

the other two, i don't know but i would guess you could get away with not changing it and still, no idea on no. 3

 

[ADVNTURR]

With the 2.7 you can use an oil extractor and suck the oil out the dip stick and clean out the filter cup. No ramps/jacks, no mess, no replacing the pan plug. Just make sure you get a big enough extractor (ideally 7qt).

 

[BruceB]

With the 2.7 you can use an oil extractor and suck the oil out the dip stick and clean out the filter cup. No ramps/jacks, no mess, no replacing the pan plug. Just make sure you get a big enough extractor (ideally 7qt).

I like this idea and am looking at them online. I see some are hand pumped, 12V powered or pneumatic. How long does it usually take to pump out 6 quarts by hand? And how does the cleanup go afterwards?

 

[ADVNTURR]

I have a hand pump version that I've been using on VWs and Minis for a decade. With the engine warm I shove the hose down the dip stick, give it 10-15 pumps and watch for fluid to start coming. At that point I start to remove the filter (give it a couple of min to lower the overall level) and work on the filter replacement and o-rings. At some point I'll give it another 5 pumps or so and wait until it starts sucking air. I then start to feed the tube up/down a bit while giving it a few more pumps to try and get everything out and make sure I didn't miss something. Before I install the filter I pull the hose from the dipstick and place it in the filter cup and give a few more pumps (there's typically a couple fl oz in the cup).

Replace dipstick, pour a bit of fresh oil in the filter cup, install filter, fill oil. Whole process is probably 15-20min if I'm diligent. I've only done one change on my '24 so far (not my daily) and it took a bit longer because it took a coupe of tries to find the right depth for the hose in the dipstick tube, but once I got it right it pulled a solid 6qt out.

Next change I'm going to do a video of the process on my truck, but I have done one in the past on my VW which is the same process:

 

[Jason B]

Good idea for 2.7 FX4 owners, don't have to remove the skid plate to drain oil.

 

[BruceB]

I have a hand pump version that I've been using on VWs and Minis for a decade. With the engine warm I shove the hose down the dip stick, give it 10-15 pumps and watch for fluid to start coming. At that point I start to remove the filter (give it a couple of min to lower the overall level) and work on the filter replacement and o-rings. At some point I'll give it another 5 pumps or so and wait until it starts sucking air. I then start to feed the tube up/down a bit while giving it a few more pumps to try and get everything out and make sure I didn't miss something. Before I install the filter I pull the hose from the dipstick and place it in the filter cup and give a few more pumps (there's typically a couple fl oz in the cup).

Replace dipstick, pour a bit of fresh oil in the filter cup, install filter, fill oil. Whole process is probably 15-20min if I'm diligent. I've only done one change on my '24 so far (not my daily) and it took a bit longer because it took a coupe of tries to find the right depth for the hose in the dipstick tube, but once I got it right it pulled a solid 6qt out.

Next change I'm going to do a video of the process on my truck, but I have done one in the past on my VW which is the same process:

I watched your video and another one about the Harbor Freight version that looks similar to yours. It looks like the hand pump version is all that is needed. I'm sold. Thanks

 

[kvranger]

I change the oil in my 2.7 xlt without ramps. Pulling the skid plate and dumping the oil from the pan is a crap ton less hassle than using a pump. Also you know you dumped as much oil as possible

 

[MAV]

Yes, if you're skinny enough, you can get under it, drop the skid pan and drain the oil. You don't have to change the plug every time, but they're cheap, so you decide. I change mine on my other Fords about every other or maybe every third oil change. I've never had any leakage issues.

Here is a link to a 5-pack of Dorman branded plugs on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Autograde-097-826-Plastic-Drain/dp/B07K3WGCLF

You can get cheaper ones from China if you trust Chinesium, although with a 140% tariff on them, they probably won't be cheap for long.

 

[RangerWilly]

Changed mine on the ground with little problem. I added the aftermarket plug adapter to make it cleaner. If you elect to stay stock, remember to throw some rags on the crossmember near the drain to minimize a mess. I have the 2.7l.

 

[chasc]

2.7 L FX4. I drove the front tires up onto two of the leveling “blocks” like you use for an RV. Maybe 2” raise on each side. It’s tight but doable. Keep in mind only the smaller rear black skid plate needs to come off, not the larger front silver one. Made that mistake…

 

[Sparky62]

Changed mine on the ground with little problem. I added the aftermarket plug adapter to make it cleaner. If you elect to stay stock, remember to throw some rags on the crossmember near the drain to minimize a mess. I have the 2.7l.

Which drain plug are you using?

 

[RangerWilly]

Ronin Easy Oil Drain.

https://roninfactory.com/products/f...VDNDM2rhWHZIx8rTpXoGmKqBDx1ezGOv_uLnaLv88ifM2

 

[superj]

Oh, like a fumoto valve /\

 

[RangerWilly]

Oh, like a fumoto valve /\

Yeah, pretty similar. First time I've used anything like it. Hopefully no issues with it.

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