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Awirez

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Any difference in power with premium?
Refer to previously aforementioned topic of octane.

Premium gives the ability for a more efficient combustion cycle and less likely to predetonate.

Don't confuse octane rating with what top tier fuel is. You can have low octane fuel that is top tier.

Some links for further explanation.



 

Lion77

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Technically lower octane fuels are high energy (chemical energy potential), but the problem arises with fuel volatility as mentioned above. If the fuel is too volatile for the heat in the combustion chamber on the intake / compression stroke, then it will auto ignite before intended and lead to non-ideal and often damaging conditions.

Higher octane fuels are less volatile, but technically also have slightly lower chemical potential energy. Their advantage comes in the fact that you can optimize the timing and compression that offer a net benefit to extract more potential energy from that fuel.

My advice is focus more on making ideal conditions for your engine rather than chasing a few HP under ideal conditions. I.E., I'd rather focus on allow that engine to make it rated power over as much of the environmental range as possible than 20hp more on a 70-degree balmy day but making 40 hp less on a hot, making the vehicle feel inconsistent.

Over the years I've learned this leads to more enjoyable experience than anything (in addition to the fact that your vehicle maintains its optimal function over its lifespan). I've seen dynos of some LS V8's make 50 hp LESS on a dyno than rated (stock engines) due to buildup on the injectors, lack of maintenance and fuel quality issues (around 100k+ miles of wear and tear). But I've also seen a maintenance overhaul restore that to within a few HP of factory new or even slightly better (due to wear in actually enhancing power).

One of the biggest things is to use good quality oil changed regularly to prevent vaporization. Oil vapors in the PCV system really kill timing advance, it's a commonly know performance killer in the 5.0L GT's on track days. Since those are NA, you can run a catch can help, but fresh synthetic oil and high-quality fuel is still the winner. There's not much to "catch" if there's not much vaporization!

Turbos complicate that because you need a dual valve catch can for vacuum and boost operation, i've found a lot of those valves to be sub-optimal and can gum up so I'm not personally a fan of cans fur turbo engines. Also avoid any of those dry or K&N filters, they allow far more dust contamination and are only suitable for on-road track conditions, anything else you're just coating your intake and valves with fine dust that gets through which is going to rob you of far more power than the measly 10hp gains, especially as the miles pile on and the rings begin to wear faster, robbign you of compression!

Not only that, but their dust capacity is 1/3 that of a paper filter, so they flow better for a very short time, then clog up and flow WORSE than a paper filter by a considerable margin, making LESS power. So that's why I say their application works for on-road racing where it makes some sense (not many miles, fairly low dust conditions), but not for the majority of applications.

Sorry for another long post, but it's a bit of a complex issue with many facets to it. Engines are fickle like the human body, but consistency is built through rigorous maintenance and trying to create the ideal environment to maximize performance.
Although, I do want to point out, this answer wasn't intended to discourage anyone from use FP cal's IF they are willing to give up lower octane fuels. That's essentially what they are is factory powertrain calibrations that give you what the engine is capable of IF there was no need to scale back timing should someone go from running 93 down to 87 suddenly during a fill up.

You can only get so aggressive with timing on 91+ if you have to have a margin of safety to scale back if the driver refills with a tank of 87, otherwise there would be damage before the ECU can scale back fast enough with the lower octane suddenly in the tank and the ECU has no way of knowing until severe detonation occurs = cracked lands or bent rods.

If we rid ourselves of the need to scale back to fuels below 91, then the timing advance and fueling can be more aggressive on 91+ as you only need a safety margin for the higher-octane fuels since you will never switch back.

Some vehicles from Ford and other manufacturers are 91+ ONLY, so there is no scalability, and you must run higher octane fuel, like the GT350, GT500 and I believe the Raptor R as examples, so those cars do not have pro Cal's because that is basically is what you are getting from the factory.
 

TurboRanger

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I bought Tuner It will be here in 2 days . Now im not sure I want it.
Regular is $4 + a gal. Premium is $ 5 + a gal. here in Kalifornia
 

ricmar350

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I bought Tuner It will be here in 2 days . Now im not sure I want it.
Regular is $4 + a gal. Premium is $ 5 + a gal. here in Kalifornia
Did you get the tune installed and if so, what do you think about it?
 

ricmar350

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RANGER 2.7L ECOBOOST CALIBRATION


  • Peak Power = 355 hp @ 5,500 rpm
  • Peak Torque = 433 lb-ft @ 3,500 rpm
  • Improved throttle response throughout rpm range
  • Optimized Shift Schedule
  • Premium Fuel Required

I'll be placing my order tomorrow. Anyone else planning to order it?
Did you get the tuner? If so, what do you think so far?
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